Gianluca Tagliabue
Analyst · UBS. Your line is open
Thank you, Gildo. I take it from Page 7. We have seen six exciting months and now we have so much more to look forward to. As Gildo mentioned earlier, the group saw robust revenue growth over the past six months in both constant currency and organic growth, respectively at 24.7% and 21.5%. I remember what organic growth means. It means not just constant currency, but also means neutralizing the delta parameter from acquisitions, dispositions or changes in the license agreement, which translated means neutralizing the effect of in and out of TOM FORD, which last year was license of distribution and this year was fully consolidated from April 28. So the Zegna segment saw 23.8% organic growth year-over-year mainly due to market share gains we witnessed as a result of the execution of our Zegna One Brand strategy while Thom Browne segment grew 13.6% thanks to a combination of store expansion and positive comps. Both segments recorded significant outperformance in the DTC channel highlighting the strong customers' response to our products and collection. We also saw a positive impact on our revenues after the first consolidation of TOM FORD FASHION segment, which occurred at the end of April with EUR64 million in two months and a few days. I remember that the deal was closed on April 28. Flipping to Page 8. I remember as we anticipated that since first half '23, the format of the P&L has been changed from by nature to by function, which allows us to present and discuss for example the gross profit and also the marketing expenses. We are quite pleased to report the progress we have made in the profitability over the course of this year so far. We recorded a profit of EUR52.1 million with a great increase of 147.9% over last year. Our gross profit increased by 29.2% to EUR579.8 million. And our gross margin came in at 64.2% for the first six months compared to 61.6% over the same period of last year. The improvement in our gross margin is a direct result of the group's strategy, including the strength of the DTC channel, which carries a higher margin compared to the wholesale channel. Price repositioning; reduction of end of season sales as part of the Zegna One Brand elevated strategy, which started with its rollout of Fall/Winter '22 collection prior year; the higher incidence of essential products, which carry a longer lifetime on the shelves and so therefore, a lower burden of obsolescence; higher absorption of industrial fixed cost. All these elements drove the increase in gross profit as a percentage of revenues. On the other hand, we had a dilutive factor as gross profit in the first half of 2023 reflects the first partial effect of the PPA or the purchase price allocation of Tom Ford, which is quantified in our 6-K SEC filing in EUR3.6 million as a result of the step-up of the fair value of the acquired TFI inventory that was sold to us subsequently to the acquisition. So this EUR3.6 million, which more or less represents 40 basis points is a dilutive effect on the gross profit. Flipping to Page 9. The continued execution and success of our strategy is evident across all the profitability metrics. Our adjusted EBIT for the first half came in, as Gildo was saying, close to EUR120 million, up 45% from last year. The adjusted EBIT margin grew from 11.3% last year to 13.3% in the first half of 2023 reflecting the success of the brand strategy, the store productivity is the main factor. The leverage on cost more offsetting the efforts and the investment to grow the business namely an increase in the cost to expand the Thom Browne DTC network and the effects of integrating the TOM FORD FASHION business, for which by the way we pay royalties and we have the amortization of the license agreement, which in the first two months is charged into the P&L for an amount of EUR500,000. Our SG&A expenses were up 24.9% over last year driven by the consolidation of Tom Ford, driven by higher variable experience in our stores around the world as well as higher personnel cost as we continue to invest in expanding and strengthening the business. Marketing expenses, which include both for activities and personnel, were also up growing 37.4%, in line with our strategy which we shared at Capital Markets Day last year. We will continue to invest in marketing and we expect a similar or higher spending incidence for Zegna and TOM FORD FASHION segments during the second half of 2023. After the step-up experienced last year, the corporate costs were stabilizing at EUR15.6 million, which is 1.7% of revenues compared to 2.3% last year. Despite these rising expenses, our profitability increased cementing our faith in our trajectory and our strategy for the future. For second half, we need to be mindful of the timing profile of some of the costs which maybe unevenly allocated to the different semesters. For instance, as I pointed out, some marketing expenses might be presenting a similar or higher incidence on the second half. Now let me share some details by segment, flipping to Page 12. Starting with the Zegna segment. In the first half, Zegna segment recorded a 17.9% increase in revenues coming at EUR651 million. Adjusted EBIT for the period was up 47.8% landing to EUR100.5 million while the adjusted EBIT margin increased from 12.3% to 15.4%. So as Gildo was mentioning before, step-up of 3 percentage points. The overall profitability improvement reflects our pricing strategy, reflects the well ahead of the curve improvement on the DTC store productivity, which is a particular area of focus for us and the fact that there is a positive scale on industrial fixed cost by the effect of the growth. These positive factors were partially offset by increased personnel cost and by our investment in advertising and marketing. This will remain an important area of investment for us for the rest of the year and in the future. Page 14. On Thom Browne, we recorded revenues of EUR208 million, an increase of 11.9% compared to last year. The minor decrease in adjusted EBIT down 0.1% from last year to EUR31.5 million compared to EUR31.6 million was due to cost associated with the store network expansion, which we expected to see and some strengthening of central costs in a phase of consolidation of the growth of Thom Browne. We have added 13 store openings in the 12 months ended June '23, which resulted in increased personnel. Similar to Zegna, we're also investing in marketing and advertising for Thom Browne with a focus to raise brand awareness, including the impressive debut of the Haute Couture collection in Paris earlier this year. Moving to Page 16. TOM FORD FASHION, which was fully consolidated on a pro rata basis starting from the deal as of April 28. In this two months and few days, we recorded EUR64 million for the segment and an adjusted EBIT of EUR3.7 million. The adjusted EBIT reflects EUR4.4 million related to the preliminary purchase price allocation process resulting from the TFI acquisition. Also important to recall the profitability for TF FASHION discounts royalties, which we can indicate in the range of fair market value. Page 18. Let's touch quickly on the balance sheet items. Our net financial indebtedness stood at EUR17 million as of June largely due to the cash outflow stemming from the TOM FORD FASHION acquisition. The outflows related to the buyback of Thom Browne Korea will affect the second half of the year. The acquisition was effective starting from July 1. We also recorded EUR34.5 million in CapEx mostly due to the store network expansion across both Zegna and Thom Browne brands, which represent 4% of revenues. And we expect slightly higher CapEx in the second half of this year. Zegna saw seven net store openings in the first half including the ones that Gildo mentioned in New York, Concession, Copenhagen, Saks and Morris (ph) in Europe and a few smaller stores in China. Thom Browne saw three net store openings in the same six months such as [indiscernible]. Some of the CapEx were also due to the Zegna store renewals and relocations so not really openings, but we have renewed or relocated some stores like Beverly Hills Rodeo Drive, BN in Austria and Florence. Trade working capital increased by EUR148 million, of which EUR86 million reflects the consolidation effect of TOM FORD trade working capital as of June 2023. Net of the effect of TOM FORD FASHION addition, we point out the inventory increase and we call it as a healthy inventory increase because most part of the increase was a planned increase on the Essential Zegna One Brand collection products, which are the ones that we aim to be never out of stock and where we see a good sales strong performance. So now flipping to Page 20. Lastly, let's close 21, 22. I close with a brief overview of the outlook. I remember that we set the guidance in May '22 when we didn't have on the horizon TOM FORD. So this guidance needs to be read as net of TOM FORD FASHION and we indicated the EUR2 billion and adjusted EBIT margin of 15% at least by 2025. We anticipate that we continue on the trajectory to meet our medium-term target. And we will be more explicit on revised targets in December in the coming Capital Markets Day. Now back to Gildo to close.