Richard Hayne
Analyst · Wolfe Research. Your line is open
Thanks Frank and good afternoon everyone. Today, I will speak to our fourth quarter results, talk about the macro business environment and then finish with how we planned to navigate in this climate. Let me begin with a fourth quarter overview. I would characterize results during this year's fourth quarter especially the holiday season as both disappointing and highly unusual. Total company comparable sales were flat for the quarter. But within the quarter two distinct periods appeared. Comps were up nicely in the month of November. All three brands enjoyed a fantastic start of the holiday season by driving double-digit comp sales gains on both Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Things were looking very good. Then came December, store traffic and overall demand in North America at all three brands evaporated for several weeks at the beginning of December. More normal demand returned only as Christmas and Hanukkah drew near. Demand remained normal immediately after the holidays but fell back again once the New Year began. I can't recall having ever seen a quarter with such wild and wide fluctuations. And well all three brands experienced the same sales curve the amplitudes were different. I will provide some color on these differences starting with the Urban Outfitters brand. The Urban brand reported a plus 2% comp with both North American and European groups reporting positive comps. In North American sales benefited from strong improvement in the men's apparel and accessories categories continued strength in the eminent and beauty and slightly positive comps in the women's apparel offering. Partially offsetting those gains were weak sales in women's accessories in home categories. Accessories suffered from under performance and cold weather related product and the home category was impacted by lower demand for electronics, vinyl and books. Meanwhile the European group produced outstanding comp increases in their women's apparel category with own brand product driving all the gain and mostly through regular price sales. Thus we know there is an abundance of women's fashion available to drive sales. Although comps were positive, the brand saw a decline in merchandise margins. IMU declined by 55 basis points versus the prior year due to the shift in sales by category and the out-performance of branded apparel product which typically carries a lower initial markup. The shift in mix was also largely responsible for a 5% decrease in AUS at the brand. We believe these factors may continue to be a drag on sales and merchandise margins through at least the first half of fiscal 2018. Additionally, sales trends decelerated toward the end of the quarter resulting in markdowns that were slightly higher by rate implant. We believe the sale deceleration in the final 30 days of the quarter was caused in part by fewer fresh recedes. January is no longer a clearance month. She wants new fashion and the brand didn't offer her enough of it. One of the Urban brands big wins in the quarter and the year came from its marketing efforts. During the quarter marketing activity on a year-over-year basis drove 23% more sales and generated 56% more incremental margin. Digital community and social media are replacing store fronts and traditional advertising as a preferred means by which brands and customers are connecting. I believe the Urban brands use the social media platforms and the customer connections they are building are among the best in the industry. Currently the Urban brand enjoys almost 7 million Instagram followers, a 52% increase versus the prior year and well surpassing most of its peers. Now let me turn your attention for the Anthropologie group. The brand's fourth quarter performance in North America was less than December and results were largely a repeat of the previous three quarters. The growth experience in the Home, Beauty, Beholden and Terrain categories and concepts continued to be over shadowed by challenges in the apparel and accessory offerings. As a result total brand comparable sales in the quarter dropped by 3%. During the quarter the expanded Home category continued to enjoy positive momentum. This category posted strong comp sales with improved IMU and lower markdowns on a year-over-year basis. We believe this momentum should continue as the team evolves its aesthetic, broadens the offering and refines its marketing. The Beauty category posted double-digit comps in Q4 and the brand team believes there is significant opportunity in FY '18 to build this category out further. Both the Beholden and Terrain concepts also delivered strong double-digit comps and both continue to benefit from inclusion into the Anthropologie group where they can leverage the Anthropologie customer base. Terrain product proved to be very popular in the two shop-in-shop open inside the new Anthropologie large format stores in California. Because of this success, additional Terrain shops are planned for future large format Anthropologie stores. In addition, Terrain plans will expand the number of garden center locations it operates independently. Customer excitement around all of the expansion categories confirms our belief that the Anthropologie brand resonates deeply with its customers, however, the customers also telling us is no answer in terms, the apparel and accessories are currently off pitch. We believe strongly that with the better product offering both categories would be enjoying the same positive comps as other Anthropologie products. Indeed the brand in Europe were approximately 40% of the product and those categories is now sourced locally succeeded in producing positive apparel and accessories comps in the fourth quarter. We are aggressively addressing this issue and had begun the process of strengthening our North American design and merchant teams in these two categories. The brand has now been reorganized and product responsibility has been divided between soft and hard goods. [Indiscernible] has joined the Anthropologie Group as President of women. She will oversee and be responsible for all apparel, accessories and beauty products plus the Beholden business. At the same time Andrew Carnie has been promoted to the position of president of Home. In that position he will oversee and be responsible for gift to core and furniture products plus the Terrain business. We have also added a new merchandise manager and three new classification design directors to the women's apparel team. We are determined to fix the fashion issue and are planning for better results as FY '18 progresses. Moving to the Free People brand, the positive momentum derived from better fashion apparel that began in Q3 continued into the fourth quarter. And the brand was able to deliver a 1% positive retail segment comp in this year's hard day quarter. Positive comps came across the apparel assortment including movement was partially offset by witness in footwear and cold weather related accessories. In addition to provide positive retail segment comps the brand also controlled its inventory effectively with ending levels on a comp year-over-year basis down 18%. This resulted in double-digit increases in markdown comp sales while regular price sales rose nicely. IMU improved as well. And combining all of these factors merchandise margin improved by more than 200 basis points in this year's quarter versus the same period last year. In Q4, the wholesale channel recorded revenues down 1%. But as Frank said, this drop was entirely due to timing shifts resulting from last year's late shipments. In order to capture a more accurate picture of the wholesale business, we look at the combined quarters. For the six month period ending January 31, total wholesale revenues increased by 13%. Revenue growth during that combined period was driven by year-over-year gains at e-commerce accounts specially those at department stores, European accounts and growth and new specialty accounts related to expansion categories such as movement. Revenue generated from movement product grew by 71% versus the same period last year. Movement product is now sold through 102 movement accounts such as spas, yoga studios, gyms and fitness centers in addition to existing Free People department and specialty store accounts. We believe the movement brand has very exciting opportunities and could drive substantial future revenue growth. Finally, current quarter wholesale shipments and booking remain strong and we believe the wholesale business may be able to achieve double-digit growth once again in FY '18. Now let me say few words about the macro environment. Without that the retailers in general and URBN specifically face a number of challenges. The most obvious of which is disruption created by the digital revolution. Once again sales from the DTC channel grew much faster than the store channel. DTC session traffic is up strongly while store traffic is weak. The shift in consumer preference is both obvious and growing. Total company penetration of our direct channel across all brands increased by roughly 400 basis points during the holiday season. I predict within the next three years, total URBN retail segment sales by channel will be almost equal. This would be fine if the increase in DTC sales were wholly additive, but they're not. Digital shopping is partially replacing store shopping and thus is negatively impacting store traffic and store generated sales. Flat to negative store ‘comps’ are causing occupancy deleverage and eroding four-wall margins. Add to that the fact that the U.S. market is oversaturated with retail space and far too much of that space is occupied by stores selling apparel. Retail square feet per capita in the United States is more than six times that of Europe or Japan. And this doesn't count digital commerce. Our industry, not unlike the housing industry, saw too much square footage capacity added in the 90's and early 2000's. Thousands of new doors opened and rents soared; this created a bubble, and like housing, that bubble has now burst. We are seeing the results; doors shuttering and rents retreating. This trend will continue for the foreseeable future and may even accelerate. Another consequence of overcapacity is discounting and endless promotions as retailers try to drive demand through lower prices. This causes AUR deflation and erodes merchandise margins. Given an uncertain environment where occupancy costs are deleveraging and merchandise margins are pressured, how does URBN, with our current portfolio of strong, omni-channel, lifestyle brands, adapt, grow and remain solidly profitable? The answer: we plan to do what any good portfolio manager would. Invest resources in the most promising opportunities, diversify to lower risk, and increase liquidity. Fortunately for us, we are already reasonably diversified. Three years ago, we set out to strengthen and grow our non-apparel categories and have done so with considerable success. We now see many additional opportunities to grow by channel, category and geography. Over the past five years, if we look at URBN growth rates by channel, the direct-to-consumer and wholesale channels grew fastest. Both produced CAGRs in the high teens. Stores, on the other hand, produced CAGR in the low single digits. With no compelling reason to believe those trends will change abruptly, we plan to distort our efforts and spend accordingly. Our highest priority is where we’ve had the most recent success, digital. Last year, we made many improvements to our capabilities in this channel. We developed a single platform for all brands. This enables URBN to be more scalable and efficient in developing and rolling out front end enhancements across all brands, both on mobile, and all websites. We have improved our functionality around check out, payments, search, inventory visibility, in store pick-up, ship to store, mobile capabilities and speed on all web platforms. This year, in order to maintain that strong digital growth, we plan to complete the single platform rollout to all brands, make additional improvements to our site functionality, invest more in data analytics so we can know our customers better and give that customer personalized experiences, improve our service levels, including faster and more reliable shipping and enhanced customer communications, give the customer more product choices in all categories, and speak to her on the devices and through the social sites she prefers. While doing all of this, we have to ensure that these initiatives are done in a voice that is both brand appropriate and aspiration. To accomplish many of these digital initiatives, we recently reorganized the digital teams and created a new role of Chief Digital Officer. Dave Hayne, our CDO and his team, working in conjunction with the brands and the IT group, should help to facilitate investments in the digital channel by identifying and force ranking opportunities, and should allow us to implement those investments faster and more effectively. Moving on to the wholesale channel, we plan to grow revenues through category and geographic expansion and diversification. The FP Movement brand is an excellent example. The concept is built around exercise and wellness for women and it affords the wholesale channel, for the first time, access to the 200 billion dollar per year action sports market while still permitting crossover into the casual fashion world, too. Movement product exists at the intersection of active functionality and feminine fashion. It is infused with Free People’s signature fashion sensibility which differentiates it from most competitors in the space. We are excited by the opportunity this concept possesses and are continuing to invest in its future by committing more resources to product design, expanding the breath of the offering, building out a dedicated national sales team, attending more action sport-centered trade shows, and developing and executing a strategic marketing plan. The core Free People fashion product also holds opportunities to grow and diversify, in this case, by geography. Currently over 90% of the core product is distributed into North America. Certainly the brand has the capacity to expand internationally. To that end, Free People has recently hired a senior sales manager based in London, to manage the sales team and grow the European account base. The brand is attending more fashion trade shows across Europe and to support the growth, Free People intends to begin utilizing the current URBN distribution facilities in Rushden, U.K., to stock and ship the wholesale product to European accounts. I certainly don’t want to give the impression that we are abandoning the store channel because we’re not. I envision our brick and mortar store fleet as an equal partner with the virtual store in the new omni-channel retail world. We will continue to invest in this channel, but relative to historic levels, store investment is trending downward. This is largely because both larger brands have now reached what we believe, and have always said, is full penetration in North America, a fleet between 200 to 250 stores. Furthermore, it makes little sense to enter into many new, long-term leases at this time when all signs indicate that a similar lease will be less expensive in the near future. This year URBN plans to open 15 new stores in North America versus 26 and 29 over the two previous years, respectively. To-date we have signed only eight leases for new stores to be opened in North America in FY’19. We do, however, continue to believe strongly in the Anthropologie large format concept, and will continue to invest in opening more of them. But these new stores will be primarily expansions or relocations of current stores rather than geographic expansion. URBN will also continue to make omnichannel investments like in-store pickup and inventory visibility by store. All three brands do have an exciting opportunity to expand their store base internationally. There are many robust markets where our brands have limited to no distribution. This year we plan to open 2 to 3 new stores in Europe and over the next five years besides more European stores we plan to open stores in Asia and the Middle East as well. A number of these might be through franchising or joint venture arrangements. Lastly, allow me to say a few words about liquidity. Fashion brands always deal with significant product uncertainty and risk. I think of designers and merchants like weather forecasters as they try to accurately predict the future. Today added to this underlying uncertainty is the risk brought on by digital disruption and deflationary pricing pressures. This creates a new level of risk. Besides diversification the best way for us to deal with increased risk is to stay liquid. It is important to keep inventories very lean and have as much flexibility as possible to move in or out of certain products quickly. One of our primary goals for each brand this year is to lower initial order quantities and introduce more new products while maintaining lower overall weeks of supply. This means working closely with suppliers and our production and logistics teams to speed up our supply chain capabilities. Risk mitigation and bringing more newness into our product assortments is more important than ever. So in conclusion, our plan going forward includes shifting our resources to better align with today's opportunities as we see them, continuing to diversify our businesses around channel, category and geography and placing smaller, more frequent inventory bets and staying as liquid and nimble as possible. If we succeed in accomplishing these goals and I believe we will I am confident URBN will successfully navigate the current choppy environment and deliver solid profitability and growth. Finally in closing, I thank our brand leaders David, Trish and Sheila and their teams; Meg and her creative team and our shared service teams for building and maintaining the infrastructure that allows the brands to succeed. I thank our 24,000 associates worldwide for their inspiring dedication, drive and creativity. I also recognize and thank our many partners around the world and finally I thank our shareholders for their continued support. That concludes my prepared remarks. I would now turn the call over for your questions.