Neil Bowden
Analyst · TD Cowen. Your line is open
Thanks Dani. Our financial performance for the first quarter of fiscal 2025 reflected the early progress we are making across our key operating imperatives as we focus on the things within our control. While we are closely monitoring the macroeconomic dynamics in our markets and the impact they are having on consumer behavior, our energy and actions are squarely aimed within the organization at our operating imperatives. On to the results. Revenue in our first quarter increased 4% year-over-year or 3% on a constant currency basis, primarily due to growth in our direct-to-consumer channel, advancement of our exit inventory strategy, and incremental revenue contribution from the European manufacturing facility we acquired in Q3 of fiscal 2024, partially offset by an expected decline in wholesale revenue. I'll walk through the key revenue drivers by channel, starting with D2C. D2C sales grew 13% or 12% on a constant currency basis over the same period last year. Overall store revenue increased across all regions partially offset by lower e-commerce revenue in North America and EMEA. D2C comparable sales were down 4.4% year-over-year, largely reflecting a shift in our product sales mix, which more heavily leaned toward our spring/summer collection in addition to softer conversion trends, primarily in North America, which I'll address shortly. While we know our year-over-year comp growth results can be improved, we are very pleased with some positive developments during the quarter in this channel. First, we sold significantly more seasonal product across all regions compared to the prior with our apparel, wind wear, and footwear strongly resonating with new and existing customers, resulting in non-heavyweight down units, up 20% versus a year ago. While the change in unit mix lowered average unit revenue compared to Q1 of last year, the favorable response to our full product range demonstrates progress toward our strategy to evolve our product offering and become an all-season brand. We are focused on initiatives aimed at furthering our growth in these categories and expect our higher heavyweight down sales to ramp up as we approach our peak season, supported by our new initiatives in product and marketing. Second, we exited Q1 and an upward trend in certain markets, most notably the U.K., Germany, and Canada. More critically, we saw strength in Mainland China and Japan throughout the quarter, a continuation from our strong Q4 performance in those markets. Overall, DTC comp revenue and comp units sold experienced sequential improvement each month of the quarter, in tandem with progressing execution of our key operating imperatives. So far, we've seen mixed results in July. And we continue to monitor the consumer behavior around the world going forward with our peak plans. You will hear much more from Carrie, about what we're doing in the operational end to address the gaps. In Q1, wholesale revenue decreased $11.1 million year-over-year as expected, down 41% year-over-year or 42% on a constant currency basis impacted by the relatively small sales volume for wholesale in Q1. This decline reflected our planned lower order book, as we tightened supply to wholesale partners in a soft business environment and the continued optimization of wholesale relationships as we elevate the quality of our partners in this sales channel. Overall, we're confident in delivery of our order book to wholesale partners for the full year and continue to expect wholesale revenue to decrease 20% year-over-year on a full year basis. We delivered some incremental product in Q1, albeit small, above and beyond the planned order book with select partners. Revenue in our Other segment, increased to $9 million in Q1 of fiscal 20s25 from $1.9 million in Q1 of fiscal 2024, which included third-party sales from the European manufacturing facility we acquired in Q3 of last year. Friends and Family sales to exit slow-moving and discontinued inventory which did not occur in Q1 of fiscal 2024 and employee sales for which we implemented a new program in Q3 of fiscal 2024. Moving to a brief regional overview of performance, regional revenue will be discussed in terms of constant currency. Asia Pacific was our fastest-growing region in the quarter with revenue up 25% over the same period last year, even as we lapped strong comps of 43% year-over-year growth in Q1 fiscal 2024. Domestic shopping in Mainland China and Mainland Chinese tourists shopping at our stores in Japan, were once again the primary drivers of D2C growth in the quarter where consumers demonstrated strong demand for our in-season product. Solid store and online D2C performance in Mainland China and Japan resulted in double-digit comp growth in these two markets in our first quarter of this year. That said, in total, D2C comp sales were slightly down in the region, as lower sales in Greater China excluding Mainland China more than offset the strength in Mainland China and Japan. Within Greater China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan faced significant pressure as shoppers chose to spend their dollars either domestically within Mainland China or in Japan. North America revenue was down 3% over the same period last year with U.S. sales growing by 2% and Canada down 7% year-over-year. In the first quarter, both regions experienced lower e-Commerce revenue in addition to lower wholesale revenue as was planned, partially offset by higher sales from new stores and other revenue contributions. In Canada, our Banff and Vancouver stores benefited from stronger tourism traffic in those cities, contributing to positive year-over-year D2C comparable growth in the market. D2C growth in the U.S. was driven by the impact of stores opened later in fiscal 2024 and therefore not in the comp base. We faced slower traffic trends in the quarter. We believe as a result of continued pressure on consumer spending in the market and heat weight experienced across the country in June and a strategic decision to intensify our performance marketing spend closer to peak period. We also faced softer conversion, likely due to not having enough seasonal inventory on hand to meet consumer demand in our stores and online which we rectified late in the quarter. This led to a decrease in comp sales in the region over the full quarter. Both brand awareness and having the right amount of inventory, at the right place, at the right time are key areas of focus for us so that we are ready to meet the demand as we have in. EMEA revenue decreased 11%, due to a decline in wholesale revenue partially offset by higher D2C revenue. While the first quarter got off to a slower start, execution in our D2C initiatives combined with increased tourist traffic generated by some popular live events in the region contributed to improvement in comparable year-over-year revenue growth in the region from May to June. We are especially encouraged by revenue improvements we've seen in our London Regent Street store as a result of our execution which Carrie, will describe in a moment. Moving down our income statement, let's turn to gross profit. Our first quarter gross profit decreased by 5% year-over-year, in turn gross margin declined 540 basis points to 59.7%. As always in our smallest quarter, small dollar impacts can have an outsized effect on the quarterly results. In Q1, channel mix and product mix had an outsized impact on our gross margin, given our smaller but we expect that it will have a minimal impact on the full year and we continue to expect that gross margin over the full year will be similar to fiscal 2024. The year-over-year decrease in gross margin in Q1 was mainly due to the following factors: First, our new European manufacturing facility in particular contributed to 330 of the 540 basis point decline, given its relatively fixed cost base seeing deleverage in a relatively small quarter. The factory remained an integral part of our category expansion strategy allowing us to leverage best-in-class manufacturing capabilities as we expand our luxury offerings. The remainder of the decline was – and channel mix, which was slightly offset by the positive benefits from pricing. In our DTC channel, we had a higher proportion of lower-margin non-heavy weight down product revenue within the mix compared with the prior year, which carries a lower gross margin than our heavyweight down product. While a D2C product mix had a larger-than-anticipated impact on our gross margin this quarter, we believe the increase in demand for our in-season collection was a very positive development, which can drive the gross profit dollar growth over the long-term. Channel-wise, we sold significantly more units year-over-year through our lower-margin other channels. Moving further down the P&L. Our adjusted EBIT was a loss of $96 million for the quarter, which increased from a loss of $91.1 million in Q1 of last year due to lower gross profit and higher costs associated with operating 14 more stores year-over-year, partially offset by lower corporate SG&A spend. The decrease in corporate SG&A spend was primarily due to savings that resulted from the two workforce reductions implemented in fiscal 2024 and led to a significant improvement in our SG&A as a percentage of revenue on a year-over-year basis. In Q1 FY 2024, we also had significant spend associated with our transformation program, which was included in our reported results and excluded from adjusted EBIT. Lastly on the income statement, Q1 adjusted net loss attributable to shareholders was $76.1 million or a loss of $0.79 per basic share compared to a loss of $73 million or $0.70 per basic share in Q1 fiscal 2024. Turning to our balance sheet. At June 30, inventory was $484 million, down 7% year-over-year, driven by a notable decrease in finished goods and raw materials and marking our third consecutive quarter of decreasing our year-over-year inventory balance. Beth will provide more color on the topic in a few minutes. SG&A efficiency and improved inventory levels are key metrics associated with our third operating imperative of operating with simplicity and we are pleased to see progress on both of those metrics in Q1. We ended the year with $766 million of net debt on our balance sheet compared to $712 million at the end of the first quarter of fiscal 2024, primarily due to approximately $140 million of cash investments in our share buyback program throughout fiscal 2024. We ended the period with approximately $335 million in unused borrowing capacity on our revolving credit facility having drawn $54 million in preparation for peak season. Our net debt leverage at the end of Q1 was 2.8 times adjusted EBITDA, which is in line with our net debt leverage at this time last year. We expect to end the year with leverage in line with historical levels. Turning to our fiscal 2025 financial outlook. Our first quarter results came in line with our expectations and we're pleased with the progress made across our key operating imperatives. Consumers are responding favorably to our apparel, wind wear and footwear product lines and we expect to capitalize on our heavyweight down offerings as we enter peak season. As for our annual outlook, we are maintaining our fiscal year 2025 guidance provided with fourth quarter and fiscal year results on May 16, which reflects our positive first quarter performance and incorporates an appropriate level of caution as we continue to operate in a dynamic global consumer environment and much of the year lies ahead. That wraps up the financial summary for our first quarter. I will now hand it to Carrie and Beth to discuss our three operating imperatives for the year and the progress we've made thus far.