Jane Nielsen
Analyst · Credit Suisse. Your line is now open
Thank you, Patrice, and good morning, everyone. Our fourth quarter and full-year results were ahead of our expectations and showed continued progress on resetting the business to a healthier base. Our four key initiatives are delivering higher AURs, lower discounts, expanded gross margins, higher inventory turns and significant growth in free cash flow. Fourth quarter revenues declined 2% on a reported basis and 7% in constant currency. This was above our guidance, driven largely by a strong Easter holiday in retail. With the holiday momentum, we returned to comp growth in North American stores. During this quarter and throughout this fiscal year, our teams have focused on strengthening the brand and driving strong execution. I’m so proud of the progress we’ve made and the work they continue to do. In the quarter, we saw higher sell-throughs on spring and improved product profitability, notably in our Polo brand. Adjusted gross margin expanded 440 basis points in the fourth quarter and 350 basis points in constant currency, benefiting from the reduced discount rates and favorable geographic and channel mix. Lower product costs and product mix also provided a tailwind to gross margin in the fourth quarter. While quality of sales initiatives will continue to drive overall gross margin expansion in fiscal 2019, product cost will become more challenging in the coming year. Adjusted operating margin in the fourth quarter was 5.6%, down 110 basis points to last year on a reported basis and down 240 basis points in constant currency, at the top-end of our guidance. In the fourth quarter, we stepped up our marketing significantly off a low base last year. Planned investment in marketing was up more than 50% in the fourth quarter and up 10% for the year and contributed to the improvement we saw in our sales trend. Moving forward, our goal is to progressively increase marketing investment to accelerate our top line growth. However, our objective is to fund the majority of the increases through productivity gains to achieve operating margin expansion. Moving on to our segment performance. Starting with North America, revenue was down 14% in the fourth quarter and comps were flat in constant currency. Adjusted operating margin was flat to last year as gross margin improvement was offset by increased marketing investment. Importantly, all channels contributed to gross margin improvements in the fourth quarter. Let me review the North America results across channels, first, our stores; second, our directly operated e-commerce business; and third, our wholesale business. Our stores were a highlight with a 6% positive comp in the quarter, driven by improved AUR and traffic trends ahead of our expectations. The earlier timing of Easter contributed 3.5 points to North America comp in the fourth quarter and 1.5 points to total company global comp. Our retail improvements demonstrate some of the progress we have made across product, marketing and operational initiatives, such as monthly product newness and timing of floor sets that were better aligned with customers wear now shopping preferences. At a more macro level, we also saw growth in foreign tourist sales in the fourth quarter, following 15 consecutive quarters of declines. E-commerce comps in North America were down 18% in the fourth quarter in line with our expectations. E-commerce results continue to be pressured by our deliberate quality of sales initiatives, including significant reductions and deep markdowns. This quarter, we continued the work to lower discount rates and promotion frequency. Additionally, new arrivals and most of our iconic items were excluded from promotions. We expect to return to growth in North America e-commerce in fiscal 2019. This will be driven by three factors. First, the significant pullback in deep markdown sales is substantially complete and fiscal 2019 quality of sales efforts will be more moderated. Second, we are elevating our assortment and adding conversion-driving functionality to the site, such as customer reviews and live chat, all accompanied by better story-telling and creative. Third, in fiscal 2018, full price sales, which were not impacted by our promotional pull back, were up 3% with continued strengthening in the fourth quarter. This momentum gives us confidence that we can return to growth as the impact of the pullback diminishes. Moving on to North America wholesale. The fourth quarter revenue decline of 22% reflects strategic actions, timing shifts and negative, but improving sellout. Two-thirds of the decline is a continuation of our quality of sales initiatives, reductions at Bon-Ton and off-price timing shifts. Similar to prior quarters, closures of lower productivity points-of-sale in department stores, brand exits and reduced discounts negatively impacted revenue. Reduced shipments to Bon-Ton stores of approximately $10 million versus last year also created pressure. Finally, a shift in timing of off-price shipments negatively impacted the trend. Off-price revenue was down 29% in the fourth quarter versus an 18% decline in the third quarter. Some Q4 shipments that typically occur late in the quarter shifted into Q1. The remaining one-third was related to our underlying trends. While we are seeing improvements in our apparel categories, some of our progress was offset by weakness in non-apparel categories. As you know, our wholesale shipments reflect department store orders from almost a year ago. These orders followed a challenging spring 2017 collection sell-out that was down mid-teens. Since that time, sell-out has shown an improved trajectory. The fall holiday season was down low double digits and our current sell-out trend at department stores is down mid single digits. Clearly, we still have work to do, but the improved sell-out trends should be reflected in our orders and then on our P&L over the next several quarters. Looking out to fiscal 2019, we expect to see an improvement in our North America wholesale trend. While we expect revenue to decline, it should be at a smaller magnitude than in fiscal 2018. Some of the dynamics we see at play as we enter FY 2019 are, on a positive side, continued sell-out trend improvement, which will increasingly have the benefit of the refresh of our wholesale shop environments and evolved product and marketing; and growth in our digital wholesale business, which now represents a mid to high teens percent of our total wholesale revenue. While some pressures from FY 2018 remained, we expect them to lessen in magnitude. In off-price, we will continue to reduce shipments, but at a more moderate rate, as we restore balance to the channel as a vehicle for excess sales. The impact from our FY 2018 point-of-sale to closures will lessen as we anniversary those closures in FY 2019. Finally, the Bon-Ton bankruptcy, which represents about $25 million in fiscal 2018, represents about a 1.5 point of headwind to North America wholesale growth in fiscal 2019. In this channel, our focus remains to build high-quality growth with our partners in the North America wholesale channel. Moving on to Europe. Revenue increased 13% on a reported basis and declined 1% in constant currency in the fourth quarter. Adjusted operating margins were up 20 basis points, but were down 220 basis points in constant currency as gross margin improvements were offset by increased marketing investments. Wholesale revenue in Europe increased 1% in constant currency in the fourth quarter in line with the underlying trend of the business. Digital wholesale in Europe continued to post double-digit growth and expand market share. In the retail channel, European comps were down 6% in constant currency, with growth in e-commerce more than offset by declines in our stores. Comps in Europe continue to be pressured by our ongoing quality of sales initiatives, assortment and inventory challenges in outlet and challenging traffic, notably in some of our outlet stores. We are implementing a number of changes in our product assortments and promotion structures to improve the traffic and conversion trends in our European stores. We expect these initiatives will start impacting the business in the second-half of fiscal 2019. Also, as Patrice mentioned, we will be upgrading the technology platform for our digitally-operated European e-commerce business at the end of the first quarter of fiscal 2019, and we expect this transition will negatively impact second quarter e-commerce comps in Europe. We will manage these impacts carefully to minimize disruption, similar to what we did in North America when we transitioned last fall. Despite challenging trends in our brick-and-mortar stores, progress in our KPIs continued. In the fourth quarter in Europe, average unit retails were up 3%, discount rates were down and gross margin was up 270 basis points on a reported basis and 40 basis points in constant currency. Turning to Asia. Revenue was up 17% on a reported basis and 11% in constant currency in the fourth quarter. We saw strong performance across every market in Asia, including 6% growth in Japan, 34% growth in mainland China and 22% growth in Greater China, all in constant currency. Our product and marketing initiatives are resonating well in the region and we are continuing to increase our digital efforts and engagement with local influencers and celebrities. Comps in Asia increased 4% in constant currency in the fourth quarter, continuing the positive comp trend from the first three quarters of the year. We expect further comp growth in Asia as we continue to upgrade our distribution network and marketing initiatives to amplify and elevate the brand. We also continued to drive quality of sales in Asia. In the fourth quarter, average unit retails were up 3%, discount rates were down and gross margin was up significantly. Adjusted operating margin was up 210 basis points to last year in the fourth quarter in Asia and up 80 basis points in constant currency, driven by gross margin improvement. With our quality of sales actions largely completed in Asia, we expect more modest operating margin expansion going forward, as we focus on driving top line growth and leveraging our investments. Turning to our store fleet. We continue to improve our retail network through the closure of underperforming locations and opening new stores with improved adjacencies. For the full-year, we opened 37 standalone stores and 77 concessions. We closed 31 standalone stores and 65 concessions, ending the year with 472 standalone stores and 632 concessions on a global basis. Moving on to the balance sheet. In this quarter and throughout this year, we continued to strengthen our balance sheet, reflecting the operational progress we are making. We ended the year with $2.1 billion in cash and investments, up from $1.4 billion at the end of last year. Total debt at the end of the quarter was $596 million, compared with $588 million last year. Inventory declined 7% in constant currency and 4% on a reported basis to $761 million at the end of the fiscal year. We will continue to focus on inventory productivity and matching inventory flows with demand. Capital expenditures in fiscal 2018 were $162 million, below our original plan, as we shifted certain capital investments from fiscal 2018 into 2019. We generated $814 million of free cash flow for the year, up from $669 million in the prior year period. Now I’d like to turn to guidance for the full-year and first quarter of fiscal 2019. We will provide our long-term financial outlook, including our capital allocation strategy at our Investor Day on June 7. As a reminder, this guidance excludes restructuring and related charges. For the full fiscal year 2019, we expect revenues to be down low single digits in constant currency, representing a sequential improvement in our journey to return to growth. Foreign currency is expected to have minimal impact on revenue growth in fiscal 2019. We expect growth in our international business to be offset by a decline in North America, reflecting the timing of the Easter holidays, which will negatively impact both the first quarter and the fourth quarter, as well as the North America wholesale dynamics I outlined earlier. We expect operating margin for fiscal 2019 to be up slightly in constant currency. This will be driven by an estimated 50 to 75 basis points of gross margin expansion, as we continue to reduce promotions and shift towards higher-margin channels and regions. Foreign currency is expected to have a minimal impact on operating margin in fiscal 2019. This guidance reflects a balance between continued quality of sales initiatives to elevate the brand and investments in products, marketing and store concepts that demonstrate high potential for growth and returns. For the first quarter of fiscal 2019, we expect revenue to be flat to down slightly in constant currency. Foreign currency is expected to benefit revenue growth by approximately 150 to 200 basis points in the quarter. We expect global comp store sales in the first quarter to be negatively impacted by approximately 1.5 points, while North America comps to be negatively impacted by roughly 3 points from the timing of Easter, which favorably impacted the fourth quarter of fiscal 2018. We expect gross margin to expand 50 to 75 basis points in the first quarter in line with our expectations for full-year fiscal 2019. Operating margin for the first quarter of fiscal 2019 is expected to be up slightly in constant currency. Foreign currency is estimated to benefit operating margin by 20 to 40 basis points in the quarter. We expect capital expenditures of approximately $275 million in fiscal 2019, focused on consumer-facing initiatives that have demonstrated a proof-of-concept and healthy rates of return, including stores, digital and marketing. We expect our effective tax rate for fiscal 2019 to be approximately 22%, below our fiscal 2018 adjusted rate of 24%, primarily due to the lower U.S. federal income tax rate as a result of tax reform. First quarter of fiscal 2019 tax rate is estimated at approximately 18%. In closing, we continue to make strong progress in building the right foundation to grow our business. Ralph’s enduring vision inspires our teams around the world and they are delivering on operational efficiencies and building our growth initiatives. We are seeing early signs of momentum. As one team, we are focused on delivering quality, sustainable growth and value creation for the long term. With that, let’s open up the call for your questions.