Jane Nielsen
Analyst · CLSA
Thank you, Stefan, and good morning, everyone. Before I review our performance and future outlook, I want to reiterate that our foundation is strong. As Stefan said, we worked very closely since I joined, and we will continue that partnership through his extended transition period to ensure that our progress is uninterrupted. With the support of Ralph, the Board and together with our leadership team, I am committed to leading our continued execution. We are as focused as we have ever been on delivering the Way Forward Plan to strengthen the brand and drive sustainable profitable growth over the long term. Now on to our performance, first let’s review the progress we made this quarter in executing the Way Forward Plan, starting with product for fall 2017. First, we refocused and evolved our iconic core product offering. We updated our color palette, materials, and fits, incorporating more consumer insights and marketplace intelligence into our decision making. Second, we improved our discipline in applying a systematic repeatable way of building a stronger assortment. This means being very clear on what we are testing, what we are growing and what icons we are reinventing. This has enabled us to cut the long tail of unproductive styles delivering a double digit reduction in the number of SKUs we have designed for fall 2017, resulting in a much more focused, productive assortment and lower development costs. Third, our improved disciplined in the assortment creation is enabling us to buy closer to market and reduce early commitments. Our premarket commitments for next fall is down significantly to last year. For Polo, we committed to only 15% of our buys premarket, before our wholesale customers place their orders. Last year, this figure was 60%. As a result we are buying much more informed which will significantly improve our ability to match inventory to demand. The initial feedback from our wholesale customers that have seen our fall product has been very positive. Fourth, we are well underway to build a best-in-class sourcing capability and a demand driven supply chain. We remained on track to reach our goal of a nine month lead time. We continue to expect to get half way there by the end of this fiscal year and 90% there by the end of next fiscal year. This quarter we achieved our goal of having all our core fabrics platformed for the upcoming fall 2017 season, which enables us to make further progress in cutting our lead times. Moving on to marketing, we are making good progress in our search for a Chief Marketing Officer. In the meantime we are preparing for our first cut through Polo marketing campaign for summer. For this past fall holiday season we launched the Ralph Lauren Icon Marketing campaign, which was built on our goal to refocus on and evolve our core iconic products and luxury. The campaign was very well received and we will be launching the second part of the campaign later this month. Moving on to our financials for the quarter, we continued to deliver against our commitments. We increased our quality of sales by moderating discount levels, lowering our inventory to align supply with demand and reducing our lead times. As you saw in our press release revenues declined 12%, in line with guidance. Adjusted operating margin was 12.8%. On a constant currency basis adjusted operating margin was up about 40 basis points to last year. Additionally non-GAAP operating margin expanded in constant currency, in both the retail and wholesale segments. The adjusted operating margin performance was better than the outlook we provided in November, largely driven by gross margin and proactive expense management. Adjusted gross margin expanded by a 140 basis points, versus last year driven by favorable geographic and channel mix and initiatives to improve quality of sale including reduced promotional activity across our businesses. This was partially offset by unfavorable foreign currency effects of approximately a 100 basis points. Operating expenses, excluding restructuring and other related charges were down 7% compared to last year, as a result of expense initiatives under the Way Forward Plan, including streamlining the organization to reduce headcount, process changes and product development to reduce costs and closing unprofitable stores to improve the profitability of our fleet. In North America, across our businesses the team started to execute against the plan we shared last quarter to come back to high performance. North America continues to be our most challenged market. Revenue declined 15% in the quarter led by a plan decline in wholesale. We strengthened our foundation by strategically reducing shipments to better align with underlying demand and right size our inventory levels. In addition we started to rebalance our distribution in our off-price wholesale business. We also executed these important quality of sale initiatives in our direct-to-consumer e-commerce business. These actions will continue to impact our results in the fourth quarter on our e-commerce site. E-commerce has been our most over promoted channel and we are moving to harmonize pricing across channel and reduce promotion depth. These are the first steps in the execution of our plan to come back to high performance in North America. They are difficult but necessary actions to build a healthy base to grow from. We expect these actions to continue through the first half of fiscal 2018. In Europe store comps improved in the third quarter despite lower markdowns as we continued to deliver on our quality of sales initiative. Our Europe team continued to drive substantial improvement in both gross margin and operating margin in constant currency. Revenue was down 6% in constant currency and 12% on a reported basis. As expected we shifted $18 million of wholesale shipments to the fourth quarter to better align with demand in our wholesale doors. Excluding this shift revenue would have been close to flat in constant currency. In our retail business in Europe we reduced promotion, drove up AURs and expanded gross margins significantly on a year-over-year basis in constant currency. Our team continues to focus on tighter inventory management and strengthening the assortment going forward. Similarly in Asia, we drove significantly lower markdown rates in each channel and expanded margins. Revenue was down 1% in constant currency and up 4% on a reported basis. Comp growth was positive in Asia in the third quarter. Going forward, we are focused on returning to revenue growth in Asia, as new distribution growth offsets closures. Moving to comparable store sales, on a global basis, comps decreased 4% in constant currency. As a reminder the high volume week after Christmas was included in the company’s third quarter this year versus the fourth quarter last year, with a positive impact of approximately 2.5 percentage points, which will pressure comps in the fourth quarter. Additionally, Easter will shift into the first quarter of FY 2018. The combined effect of these two calendar shifts will pressure fourth quarter comps approximately 3 percentage points. Moving to global e-commerce, revenues declined 9% in constant currency, the e-commerce decline is driven by our initiatives in the U.S. that I just took you through. The impact of these actions will accelerate in the fourth quarter and continue to pressure the first half of fiscal 2018. Turning to our store fleet, we are on track to close approximately 50 stores this year. We closed 12 stores in the third quarter and 27 year-to-date. This puts us on track to achieve the savings that we identified from store closures of approximately $70 million. Importantly, we are also on track with our total savings target. At this time restructuring charges are forecasted to be about $400 million and inventory charges about a $150 million associated with the company’s Way Forward Plan. In this quarter, we recorded $91 million in restructuring related impairment and inventory charges. Moving on to the balance sheet, our progress with the Way Forward Plan is reflected in our inventory position. At the end of the third quarter, inventory declined 23% to $984 million versus last year. This inventory reduction is driven by both, restructuring actions and our operating process initiatives, including a proactive pull back in receipts and moving towards a demand driven supply chain. We ended the third quarter with approximately $1.5 billion in cash in investments and $589 million of total debt. Now I’d like to turn to guidance for fiscal 2017. As a reminder this guidance excludes restructuring and other related charges in connection with the company’s Way Forward Plan and severance-related payments associated with the CEO departure announced today. For fiscal 2017, we are maintaining our guidance. We continue to expect revenues to decrease at a low double digit rate, as we execute the Way Forward Plan. Based on our current exchange rates foreign currency is expected to have minimal impact on revenue growth in fiscal 2017. We also continue to expect operating margin for fiscal 2017, to be approximately 10%, as cost savings are expected to be offset by growth in new store expenses, unfavorable foreign currency impacts, infrastructure investments and fixed costs deleverage. The fiscal 2017 tax rate is estimated to be approximately 29%. For the fourth quarter, we expect revenues to be down mid-teens on a reported basis. This compares 13 weeks this year to 14 weeks last year. The 53rd week last year, contributed approximately $72 million of net revenue including $10 million in the wholesale segment and $62 million in the retail segment, as well as $12 million of operating income. Based on current exchange rates, foreign currency is expected to pressure revenue growth by about a 100 basis points in the fourth quarter and will pressure gross margin by approximately 70 basis points. Operating margin for the fourth quarter is expected to be approximately 6% to 6.5%. Foreign currency is estimated to pressure operating margin by about a 100 basis points. The fourth quarter tax rate is estimated at 30%. We now expect capital expenditures for fiscal 2017 to be approximately $325 million, down $50 million from our previous guidance of $375 million and we increased our rigor and focus on return on investment. Regarding share repurchases year-to-date we have repurchased a $100 million of our stock and we plan to execute another $100 million in the fourth quarter to reach $200 million for the full year, consistent with our communication in June. Our expectations for fiscal ‘18 are consistent with the outlook we provided at our Investor Day in June. We continue to expect the magnitude of revenue decline to stabilize and be less than the declines in fiscal ‘17. Currently we are forecasting revenue in fiscal ‘18 to decline high single-digits in constant currency. This includes 200 basis points of pressure from our actions in right sizing our distribution in both wholesale and retail and another 200 basis points from the previously announced closure of denim in supply. These actions will be taken in conjunction with our quality of sales and price harmonization initiatives. We expect our trend to improve in the second half of the year as we move forward in the execution of the Way Forward Plan. We expect operating margin to expand in fiscal ‘18 in constant currency, driven by both gross margin and operating cost improvement. We plan to provide more specific guidance for fiscal ‘18 on our fourth quarter call in May as is our practice. In summary, we have created a strong foundation and we are delivering our Way Forward Plan commitments. As I look ahead with the support of Ralph, the Board and together with our leadership team we have the key elements in place to ensure our continued progress. With the passion and commitment of over 25,000 Ralph Lauren employees around the globe we will intensify our execution of the plan, which will strengthen our brand and return us to long term profitable growth. With that I want to turn the call back to Stefan for some closing remarks.