Sharen Turney
Analyst · Morgan Stanley
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results are detailed on Page 11 of your presentation material.
In the Victoria's Secret segment, our result did not meet our expectation, as operating income declined $18 million or 7% from last year. Nearly half of this decline was driven by calendar shift related to a marketing campaign. We made investments in real estate, technology and store label to enable future growth with the knowledge that it would make it more challenging to increase profitability in the quarter.
In addition, we experienced softer than expected top line growth, as well as lower merchandise margin rate as a result of increased promotional activity. These were the primary drivers to our miss in operating income expectation in both channels.
In the stores channel, first quarter sales increased 5% and comps were up 3% on top of the 9% increase last year. Our growth in sales came from both PINK and Beauty, and we continue to have record conversion rate.
While the total bra business was up to last year, it did miss our expectation as a result of softer than expected launch. Our merchandise margin dollars increased. However, the margin rate declined as a result of 3 drivers. First, we increased promotional activity in response to weak mall traffic. Second, we continued to see strong customer response to marketing programs, including GWPs, direct mail and Secret Rewards. Lastly, due to the calendar shift from the 53rd week, there were marketing related impact merchandise margin that fell into the first quarter versus the second quarter last year.
Operating income dollars decreased, as higher merchandise margin dollars were more than offset by growth in buying and occupancy and SG&A expenses, driven by our investment in real estate and the in-store experience. These were deliberate investments, and we are confident that will provide strong returns in the future.
In the direct channel, first quarter sales decreased 6%, as decreased apparel sales offset strong growth in lingerie and PINK. As you know, we are transitioning our apparel business, while at the same time, distorting our marketing resources to the core business of the brand: bras, panties, PINK and Beauty. We plan the apparel business to be down this season. With a 30% reduction in styles and a 25% reduction in inventory, these results were below our expectations, down roughly 20%.
In hindsight, we believe we went too far too fast. As we go forward, we will work to get the right combination of assortment, stock count and inventory that our customers want and expect from Victoria's Secret.
Our direct channel's first quarter merchandise margin rate was about flat to last year. However, merchandise margin dollars decreased on the sales decline. Operating income dollar declined as the decline in merchandise margin dollars more than offset our reduction in expenses.
Looking ahead to the second quarter, we are excited about our assortment and are also excited about our real estate and technology investments. We have the right fashion and units across our channels, and we will continue to focus on servicing our customers.
We will continue to achieve the right promotional balance between driving traffic into our stores and maintaining the integrity of our brand, while leveraging speed and agility to adjust our assortments. Our inventories are well positioned, which allows us to optimize our business. We are confident in our upcoming bra launches, which have tested well. Our semiannual sale begins in June. In closing, we know where we need to get better and are focused on improving our results in the second quarter.
Thanks. And now I'll turn it over to Nick.