Fran Horowitz-Bonadies
Analyst · Evercore ISI
Thanks, Pam. Good morning, and thank you for joining us to discuss our second quarter results. To let you know in advance, our prepared remarks are going to run a little longer than usual today as we are providing detailed new information on our flagship.
With that, let's get started with our second quarter results. As you heard from many of our retail peers this earnings season, the second quarter got off to a slow start. I am pleased to report that we experienced monthly improvements as the quarter progressed, enabling us to deliver on our previously issued second quarter outlook. Momentum has continued quarter-to-date with a solid start to the back-to-school season in the U.S., where comps are positive across brands. Equally important, we are making progress on our key transformation initiatives and continue on the path to achieving our fiscal 2020 target.
I'll go into more detail on our transformation initiatives in a moment. But first, let's start with a discussion on the second quarter and how we navigated an escalating promotional environment to deliver on our outlook. Our second quarter comps were flat to last year, benefiting from record results in jeans, pants, swim and intimates, offset by softness in female tops. We made positive momentum in the U.S. with a plus 2% comp, but that strength could not counter our international comp of down 3%, which although improved from Q1 levels, was impacted by several well-publicized external factors including extreme weather, Brexit and protests.
In Europe, comp results were consistent with last quarter, with weakness in the U.K. and Ireland offset by net improvements across other European markets. In Asia, improvements in China helped offset weakness in the Hong Kong region. Turning to the U.S., which represents approximately 2/3 of our revenue base, we achieved our eighth consecutive quarter of positive comps despite an ongoing drag from tourist locations and a heightened competitive environment.
To effectively compete and keep our inventories in line for back-to-school, we leveraged markdowns and promotions throughout the quarter. We believe that these markdowns and promotions were measured and appropriate.
By brand, at Abercrombie, we posted a flat comp. On the men's side, wovens and knits were strong; and for women, dresses and soft bottoms led the way, and we were able to successfully chase into these categories throughout the summer. That enabled our must-grow dresses category, which includes jumpsuits and rompers, to achieve record sales in the quarter. We also remain excited at our opportunity with the kids brand which we view as a long-term growth vehicle.
While Abercrombie customers are responding favorably to our evolving assortments, our new marketing team has been supporting that effort with exciting campaigns. This began with the Fierce relaunch in February, which represented our first fully integrated marketing effort. We've been steadily building on this successful campaign, including an event in Boston in early August, where fans lined up for hours to meet Celtics forward Jayson Tatum at our Fanueil Hall store and buy his limited-edition Fierce bottle.
Beyond Fierce, we also introduced our Soft AF campaign as well as our 96-hour storyline at Abercrombie, which encapsulates our target 20-something customers' desire for a much-needed long weekend and have the appropriate outfit for that occasion.
More recently, we launched our Curve Love jeans campaign, which supports our new women's jeans assortment. Response to Curve Love has been strong on social media and she's also voted with her dollars. We plan on building all 4 of these campaigns as well as introducing new ones throughout the fall and holiday seasons.
While we're pleased with the continued stabilization at Abercrombie, our results at Hollister were mixed with guys achieving another record quarter, but girls falling short of our expectations. Record guys performance was driven by strong bottoms acceptance across shorts, pants and jeans. Girls delivered record performance in 2 must-grow categories, Gilly and swim, while bottoms was positive. However, all of this was not enough to offset top challenges, where we were unable to comp our strong performance from last year.
Second quarter offerings didn't resonate well enough with our customer as we swung too far away from our core DNA. The team recognized areas of opportunity earlier in the season, and chased impact our June and July back-to-school sets. The girls tops registered nice change in the comp trend throughout the second quarter and improvements continuing quarter to date. We expect to build on recent successes for the remainder of Q3 and into holiday. In addition to top, we've also chased into denim, based on the strong reaction to our recently introduced curvy fit and continued demand for the mom jeans.
Similar to A&F, Hollister's marketing also continued to resonate with its target customer, [ leading ] into making teens feel comfortable and confident in their own skin. We built also our first quarter swim collective momentum with record second quarter swim sales across both genders. We also launched another successful pride campaign: First Time Pride Guide with ongoing partner, GLSEN, an organization that's devoted to creating safe and inclusive K-12 schools for LGBTQ youth.
Finally, I want to discuss Jeans for the Collective Good, which is all about positivity and giving teens confidence for back-to-school. The content is resonating across all channels with strong engagement and initial performance reads. And Emma Chamberlain's back-to-school jeans video reaching over 1 million views to date.
Taking a step back, while there are always things we could have done better, I am proud of our second quarter results across brands, which speaks to benefits we are already realizing from our transformation initiatives.
Moving to the back half, our confidence in the health of our core U.S. customer is tempered by an uncertain global macro outlook. In the second quarter, we believe that the domestic promotional environment was elevated, reflecting the challenging start to the quarter for many and the desire to get through summer product ahead of peak back-to-school rather than a dramatic shift in our core customer shopping habits. Our outlook for the remainder of the year takes into account potential global volatility and assumes that, similar to every year, back-to-school and holiday will be promotional.
Let's move on to an update on our transformation initiatives. As a reminder, these include: optimizing our global store network, enhancing our digital and omni capabilities, increasing the speed and efficiency throughout our concept-to-customer product life cycle and improving our customer engagement through our loyalty programs and marketing optimization.
So let's start with global store network optimization. As discussed at our 2018 Investor Day, a key driver to our fiscal 2020 goal of doubling our fiscal 2017 adjusted non-GAAP operating margin is reducing and leveraging our fixed costs mainly through store occupancy. We believe in stores and our customers do, too. With the majority of our sales occurring in this channel it is highly relevant especially to Gen Z, which represents our largest target customer base. Research shows that Gen Z visits stores more often than millennials. However, with the evolution of digital and omnichannel capabilities, their expectations have shifted. We remain focused on providing the right experience for them and being there whenever, wherever and however they choose to engage with us.
Reflecting our commitment to providing the best seamless omnichannel experience, global store network optimization is and has been one of our top priorities. There are several key components to this strategy, including: Rightsizing, remodeling, opening and closing stores. Since 2010, we have closed over 475 underperforming locations. Over the same period, we've provided our customer with approximately 300 productive new store experiences while reducing gross square footage by roughly 17%. This has been achieved while growing digital revenues to over $1 billion in fiscal 2018.
This year, we remain on track to deliver 85 new experiences, including 36 in the first half, and closed up to 40 locations, ending the year with company-wide gross square footage down to last year. Our updated store formats continue to perform well both quantitatively and qualitatively across brands, and we view them as a critical step in our ongoing evolution.
At Hollister, approximately 50% of our global store fleet has been updated. We've been able to meaningfully impact Hollister, given the size of its existing stores, which on average are more closely aligned with the new build-outs. The modernized Hollisters, on average, generate high single-digit sales lift against older-format control stores. At Abercrombie, approximately 10% of our global fleet has been updated, leaving significant runway.
When the stores were built, they tended to have very large footprints, averaging 8,000 to 10,000 square feet. New stores are roughly 30% smaller. It is early days and we are taking learnings and applying them. Thus far, the modernized smaller-footprint stores generally achieve sales that are comparable to or slightly below larger-format control stores.
Unfortunately, we've been limited with how many we can do annually as it requires partnership with our landlords to move within the mall or to carve up our existing space. Recently, there have been increasingly more locations available for lease, which could give us the opportunity to prudently accelerate openings or introduce temp stores.
Looking at our U.S. fleet across brands, we are proud of the health of our base. We are primarily located in A and B centers and our traffic has outpaced the North American mall average over the past 12 months. In fiscal 2018, approximately 95% of our non-flagship locations open for 1 year generated positive four-wall operating margins. Importantly, we've kept our lease stack highly flexible with roughly 50% of locations up for renewal the remainder of 2019 and into 2020. And we expect to continue to leverage partnerships with landlords to further modernize our stores while simultaneously improving our lease terms.
While we've made significant progress on optimizing our mall-based stores, our flagships, which are mostly Abercrombies, have been harder to impact. These flagships, the first of which opened in 2005 and the last in 2014, represent a different era. At that time, we built large-format, beautiful stores in highly trafficked premium tourist locations. These were incredibly successful, but came with a considerable price tag in the form of elevated construction costs, high rents, well above-average operating costs and unfavorable lease terms that tended to be significantly longer than those of our mall stores.
We're evaluating our flagship fleet today. Many are large and outdated. The old model in terms of size, location, build-out and tenor did not make sense for the majority of the remaining flagships. The cost involved to modernize is significant and oftentimes without promise of a return. As we continue to move closer to our customer, our strategy is to open smaller-format omnichannel locations with shorter and more flexible lease terms that cater to both local and tourist customers alike.
Heading into 2019, we had 19 flagships, comprised of 17 Abercrombies and 2 Hollisters. As a reminder, we closed our Pedder store -- Street Abercrombie in 2017. While the actual number of flagship locations is small compared to our total store count, these stores have had an outsized impact on our operating results. To better frame this impact, in 2018, our 19 flagships represented approximately 5% of sales. As from a total company comp and four-wall operating margin perspective, were responsible for a 120 basis point drag on comp and over a 110 basis point drag on operating margins for roughly $33 million. With that backdrop, it is imperative that we stay on our path of exiting these locations and repositioning within existing markets where it makes sense.
As each flagship has its own unique set of circumstances, we do not take a one size fits all approach. The goal is to thoughtfully engage with our landlords rather than exit at any cost. After many years of behind-the-scenes work, in the first quarter, we announced 3 flagship exits on top of the Q1 Copenhagen closure: The Hollister SoHo New York location, which shut its doors in Q2; A&F Milan Italy, which is expected to close by year-end; and A&F Fukuoka, Japan, which is scheduled for a fiscal 2020 closure. As a reminder, the 3 announced closures plus Copenhagen contributed under 1% of fiscal 2018 revenues. The closings of Copenhagen in Q1, Soho in Q2 and Milan in Q4 are expected to benefit total operating margin by approximately 30 basis points off of our 2018 run rate or $11 million and will bring our flagship count to 16 at year-end.
Looking to 2020. In addition to Fukuoka, we have 3 additional flagships available for closure through natural lease expirations, giving us the ability to reopen within these markets. For a variety of reasons, we cannot provide store-level detail at this time. What we can disclose is that this combined group's four-wall operating margin contributed approximately 10 basis points or $2 million of the 110 basis point drag to operating margin last year. To be clear, a scenario analysis of potential closures was contemplated when we provided our fiscal 2020 operating market outlook at our 2018 Investor Day and we remain on track with our anticipated closures. These closures, along with ongoing progress and our transformation initiatives, bring us closer to achieving our target.
Beyond fiscal 2020, we are committed to closing additional flagships. We have a summary lease stack in today's investor presentation on Page 24 that provides further clarity on future lease expirations through fiscal 2020 and beyond. As a reminder, the majority of potential future closures are expected to occur primarily through natural lease expirations and the exercise of kick-out clauses provided in our leases. Accelerated buyouts for exercising go-dark provisions, as we recently did with our SoHo store, should be the exception.
I know we've spent a lot of time talking about global store network optimization, but I also want to quickly touch on our other key initiatives, all of which are tracking to our long-term goals.
Starting with enhancing our digital and omnichannel capabilities. Our cross-channel traffic was once again positive, driven by digital, which grew in the double-digit range. During the quarter, we continued the global rollout of in-store handheld devices and implemented network and point-of-sale technology upgrades in our top U.S. stores.
Turning to increasing [ the speed and ] efficiency throughout our customer product life cycle, we are now live with our size and price optimization tools. These machine learning programs build as they gather data. Given we've just launched both, we expect to learn this year and realize inventory efficiencies and margin benefits in fiscal 2020.
Lastly, on improving our customer engagement through loyalty and marketing optimization, we're in the early stages of a series of personalization investments that will enable us to leverage the rich data we have from our loyalty programs, which have experienced ongoing strong growth in membership accounts from last year across brands. We expect to see an impact to our business in fiscal 2020.
With all that detail on our transformation initiative, hopefully it is clear that with every quarter, we further strengthen our foundation and move closer to our fiscal 2020 goals.
Next, I want to quickly touch on our ongoing efforts in environmental, social and governance, or ESG as it is commonly called. We take our work on ESG very seriously. It matters to us and it matters to our customers. Last week, we announced that we've become a participant in the UN Global Compact, the world's largest corporate citizenship and sustainability initiative and, at that time, also provided our new fiscal year 2025 sustainability targets.
Before I turn the call over to Scott, I would like to welcome 2 new members to our team. At our Investor Day in April 2018, we discussed our significant growth opportunity in Europe and Asia. Critical to these aspirations is building on a team in each region, that understands our customer and can execute our proven playbook on a more localized basis. Earlier this morning, we issued a release announcing key hires for both regions.
Our Europe team will be led by Dan Le Vesconte. Dan has 20-plus years of relevant experience, most recently at Dr. Martens. Olga Wu will be leading the charge in Asia. Olga has over 30 years of relevant experience, joining us from VF Corp, where she was the General Manager for China Timberland. Since they joined, both Dan and Olga have been hard at work learning our business and creating strategic priorities. Our expectation is for both to have a positive impact on our results in 2020.
With that, I will turn the call over to Scott to discuss our second quarter results in more detail.