Jonathan Schwefel
Analyst · Telsey Advisory Group
Thank you, Amy, and thank you, everyone, for joining us this morning for a discussion on the fourth quarter and our fiscal year performance. We remain encouraged by the trends in our business in spite of the current macro headwinds impacting our industry.
Looking back at 2021 and through the first quarter of 2022, we are very pleased with the ongoing momentum in the Vince business. We continue to gain traction in both the direct-to-consumer and wholesale partner channels, as we further refine our offerings and enhance the customer experience.
In terms of Rebecca Taylor, the team has made progress in developing a personal collection with floral prints and silhouettes, while maintaining the romantic aesthetic of the brand.
I would like to begin with a review of the performance of our Vince brand. In the fourth quarter, direct-to-consumer sales recovered to slightly above fiscal 2019 results, while we saw continued sales pressure in the challenging wholesale channel. Our gross margin improved significantly to last year despite higher freight costs. The strength of the brand combined with our high-quality product provides us with pricing power to offset cost headwinds. We remain extremely well positioned in the contemporary luxury category as we continue to evolve the assortment to meet the needs of our customers.
Looking back at our holiday season, we are very pleased with our performance as we rolled out promotions beginning in early November, earlier in the quarter than usual. Customers responded positively to our gifting assortments, particularly in knitwear sweaters, as well as the dressier styles ahead of the season and based on the success we expect to repeat this cadence in 2022.
In addition to dressier items, our business in the fourth quarter was fueled by styles that prepared customers for return to work and social activities outside the home. We saw a very strong response to cashmere and leather, and we'll build on these trends. This trend of supplementing her wardrobe has continued into the first quarter.
Our spring collections introduced an array of fashion colors, which have been well received in the first quarter as we shift away from most of the neutrals. As we look ahead towards fall, buyers have shown enthusiasm in our pants assortments, as well as our new line of cold weather accessories, both for men and women, by Amical, our new licensing partner. In addition, based on the success I mentioned earlier, we see a very big opportunity with sweaters, outerwear, particularly leather, in the back half of this year.
In men's, we are extremely pleased with the continued momentum both in the wholesale channel and in our own stores and website. While we are seeing excellent growth across these all categories, knits, wovens, tops, pants in addition to sweaters, particularly performed well during the fourth quarter. Most far in the first quarter, we have seen a great response to linen and pants, including joggers as we evidently have capitalized on the hybrid work-from-home environment.
Based on the impressive performance we are seeing quarter-after-quarter, we are confident that the men's category remains a significant growth opportunity and is a key strategic focus for the Vince brand. In particular, wholesale distribution will remain a meaningful part of this growth strategy as we work to drive market share gains by broadening our customer reach.
Looking at store performance by region, urban locations continue to outpace the store base. That said, during the quarter, store productivity remained under pressure as a result of Omicron-related buying behavior. We began to see this trend improve in March, especially in some of our resort vacation locations like Honolulu and Las Vegas. E-commerce continues to show momentum even as the mix shifts towards stores. We plan to continue to lean into e-commerce as the consumer utilizes both channels.
We've reopened our Fifth Avenue store this past week. We are excited to be reopening the store given its high-traffic location and the fact that it's the first Vince store to offer extended sizes. For the first half of the year, we plan to open a new store in the Boston Seaport.
In wholesale, supply chain disruptions and delays remain a challenge, but our teams are working closely with our partners to get product into stores in a timely manner. Like others, we believe these headwinds will continue at least through the first half of this year. Overall, we remain pleased with the sell-through at retail, which continues to demonstrate the demand for Vince as we remain the leading contemporary brand for our partners.
The reception of our brand at Bloomingdale's continues to be very strong, particularly driven by younger customers in urban markets, such as New York City and Los Angeles. As mentioned on last quarter's call, we see an opportunity to grow this relationship and we'll look to do so in a way that complements our existing wholesale footprint.
We are also excited to share that during the quarter, we reached an agreement with Saks Fifth Avenue to launch our collections on Saks.com as well as select locations this year. Saks represents another great partnership opportunity for Vince, and we look forward to growing this relationship over time.
From a brand perspective, we have installed a disciplined approach to marketing throughout the funnel at both Vince and Rebecca Taylor. We have been focusing on combining top of funnel marketing with performance marketing, while owning the message for each brand.
During the holiday shopping period, we launched clear holiday campaigns on social media for both Vince and Rebecca Taylor. While these campaigns were mainly rooted in social, we also used e-mail and SMS in a very tactical manner to drive customers both to the website and into stores, while simultaneously increasing our brand awareness. As a result of these marketing strategies, we have seen double the traffic and conversion from the fourth quarter the previous year.
Another enhanced initiative for Vince was our direct mail campaign, where we offer our most valuable customers with a gift card to drive that into stores and on to the website. We will use direct marketing more in the future.
During the spring season, we strategically positioned the Vince brand using messaging focused on living life your way. For example, we introduced a series called Crafted with Vince this past spring, which takes 8 artists and build stories around each of their lives and how they fit Vince clothes into these stores.
The essence of Vince is and always has been quiet contemporary luxury, a type of luxury that fits into your daily life. Our customers are highly affluent, and as such, they truly appreciate the quality of the Vince brand. In order to expand our customer base, a key focus for us has been to grow brand awareness and loyalty across generations, particularly to the younger customer due to the introduction of a considered social campaign. The use of our influencer strategy will continue to be critical to both Vince and Rebecca Taylor as we aim to increase awareness and drive conversion.
As mentioned last quarter, we completed the base implementation of our point-of-sale system for the Vince brand, further enhancing our omni-channel capabilities. Our ship-from-store capability, which makes more efficient use of our omnichannel inventories, has been a huge success and has become an instrumental piece of our e-commerce business.
During the fourth quarter, shift from store accounted for 14% of total e-commerce demand quarter-to-date, and more than 25% of our online sales are being fulfilled through stores, allowing us to ship a much larger percentage of demand than we were a year ago.
In addition to our ship from store capability, Buy Online Pickup in Store, which we launched at the end of the fourth quarter, has started to show encouraging results as it allows for more speed to market in terms of where product is coming from. We expect both Ship from Store and BOPIS to be even more refined in the second half of this year, and additionally, we have seen strength in our retail marketing strategies, which is driving conversion in stores.
Looking forward, we will continue to focus on strengthening our omnichannel capabilities to drive Vince Holding Corporation's digital transformation. We will be replatforming the front-end platforms of both Vince and Rebecca Taylor starting in the second half of 2022. We have selected Salesforce, our current partner for these new platforms, and we'll have them in place by the end of the year. Subsequent to that, we will install a true customer data platform, CDP, which will further enhance our target marketing and personalization capabilities.
Turning to our international business. I'd like to start by acknowledging the deeply troubling situation that is happening in the Ukraine. All of us have been standing in support with the people of Ukraine, and to show the support, we have made a $50,000 donation to Ukrainian relief funds. In addition, we have created a selection of accessories with our partner, Amical, for Ukrainian refugees support to further raise funds for these cause.
All of that said, our business in Eastern Europe is extremely small, and we have now stopped that business. We are confident we can make up this exposure in Eastern Europe between our Spanish, Australian and Chinese businesses.
In China, we are excited to announce that we have entered a wholesale relationship, which will allow us to open our first store in Shanghai and launch on web in the back half of this year. Alongside that, we are still in conversations with our joint venture partner to fully launch the Vince brand in China. We look forward to providing you with an update on future calls as these conversations progress.
Overall, we are very pleased with the performance of the Vince brand over the past year and remain extremely confident in its future. Our teams will continue to work hard to take advantage of all of the opportunities ahead as we drive market share gains in the contemporary luxury category.
Turning to Rebecca Taylor, we are making progress and heading in the right direction. As we grow the brand, a key focus for the team has been establishing margin-healthy strategies through full-price selling. Similar to the Vince brand, Rebecca has been met with no resistance to price increases. We are encouraged by the reception of spring assortment, which extends the Spring 2021 relaunch and our recent fall and winter assortments by continuing to address more of our lifestyle needs with a particular focus on building out occasion-based items that can be dressed up or down to adjust to our changing needs. During the first quarter, we have seen a great response to lace, crochet and prints thus far.
In wholesale, we have seen success by leveraging relationships with existing partners. We believe there is a growing white space in this category that we can take advantage of to drive market share gains. Looking ahead, we are relaunching a test of 6 select Dillard stores this coming fall. We are encouraged by the performance of our West Coast stores, including our new store in Palm Springs, as well as our outlets in Carlsbad in Livermore, California.
During the fourth quarter, we opened 3 full-price stores and 1 outlet for Rebecca Taylor. As a reminder, we currently have 18 Rebecca Taylor stores, 10 of which are full-priced and 8 of which are outlet stores.
As we continue to increase our marketing efforts, we are seeing the results start to meet our expectations. Our social engagement reach in the fourth quarter sequentially increased approximately 42%. For spring, we are taking the foundation of the Rebecca brand and embedding it into the concept of travel around the world.
Similar to Vince, our messaging focuses on demonstrating how the brand is appropriate wherever you go as the world starts to regain the need for occasion-based items. Based on the successful partnership Vince has had with American Express for several years, we needed to focus for Rebecca Taylor in the first quarter and are very pleased with the results. Overall, we will continue to lead into a similar strategic plan to what drove success in Vince as we redefine our merchandising assortment and enhance our brand messaging.
In conclusion, our performance reflects the strength of our distinct fashion brands. Despite experiencing extraordinary headwinds since I joined Vince Holding a year ago, we continue to impressively manage through these challenges, while making progress on our 3-year plan that we announced in January. As they watch the hard work, the good hard work of our teams put in quarter-after-quarter, I continue to be more excited about the future. In 2022, we will continue to use a disciplined approach, while executing on key strategies to drive future growth for our shareholders.
With that, I will turn it over to Dave.