Frank Conforti
Analyst · Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America. Your line is open
Thank you, Dick, and good afternoon, everyone. I will begin my commentary discussing our total company third quarter results versus the prior comparable quarter, followed by some more detailed notes by brand. Total company sales grew by 4% to a third quarter record of $1.2 billion, driven by a total retail segment comp increase of 4%, and the Nuuly segment sales increase of $23 million. These increases were partially offset by a 3% decline in wholesale segment sales and foreign currency translation that reduced sales by approximately 200 basis points. The growth in Retail segment comp sales was driven by a mid-single-digit digital channel comp sales increase and a low single-digit positive store comp. Nuuly's robust increase in sales was due to a significant increase in subscribers from the prior year. Wholesale segment sales decline was due to a decrease at Free People. Although sales were positive, operating profits declined in the quarter. The decline in operating profit was largely due to increased markdowns during the quarter. Markdowns were higher than last year because the markdown rates last year at all brands were exceptionally low and because each brand had excess inventory in certain categories. Although each brand's markdown rate increased versus the low prior year rate when compared with FY '20, this performance deferred. The Urban Outfitters brand markdown rate increased the most significantly versus fiscal '20 due to elevated inventory levels, a miss in execution and a highly promotional environment. The Free People brand recorded only a slight increase in markdown rate versus FY '20, and the Anthropologie brand delivered a strong improvement in their markdown rate. I will discuss more on each brand performance later in my commentary. Total inventory increased 19% versus the prior year. This represents a 25 point reduction from the year-over-year increase of 44% in the second quarter. Each brand has worked hard to improve its inventory to sales alignment, and we believe inventory will show a further reduction by the end of Q4. The 19% third quarter inventory increase is due mostly to higher inventory costs, earlier receipts than originally planned and excess slower selling product in certain categories. The Urban Outfitters brand in North America has the most inventory to clear, and we'll continue to deploy incremental markdowns throughout the holiday season to improve their inventory to sales relationships. We are working towards our inventory position being in line with sales performance by the end of the fiscal year. In Q3, the IMU variance to last year was slightly positive. As the quarter progressed, we began to see the benefits of lower inbound transportation expenses, a more reliable sourcing and supply chain network and the impact of internal initiatives. As a result, we currently believe that IMU could be nicely favorable in the fourth quarter compared to the prior year. We also believe there is still much more opportunity for further improvement in fiscal '24 and beyond. I will now provide more details by brand, starting with the Anthropologie Group. The Anthropologie team delivered an impressive 13% retail segment comp in Q3. This increase was driven by double-digit positive store and digital comps. By category, apparel, home and accessories delivered positive comps in the quarter. The brand delivered nicely positive comps in each month during the quarter. When compared to fiscal '20, Q3 comps remain mostly consistent with the first and second quarter results. Fourth quarter comparisons against last year continue to get more difficult, but we believe the brand comp sales versus fiscal '20 could remain consistent. This would produce retail segment comps in the mid- to high single-digit range for Q4. The Anthropologie consumer remains optimistic and is choosing fashion newness that is versatile across multiple parts of her lifestyle, whether it's going out or returning to the office. They are responding well to more dressed-up categories like dresses, pants, jackets and shoes with heels. The brand distorted into these trends as they have seen customer interest wane in more casual fashion. Anthropologie intentionally brought holiday receipts in earlier to cater to the customer's desire to dress up and celebrate all occasions in their life. This is true for both apparel and home. Home categories that lean into decorating for guests and entertaining are outperforming other items in the home assortment. The team's execution of the brand strategy to target a slightly younger customer, under the age of 40, is gaining traction. Marketing and creative teams worked collaboratively to create and deliver incredibly compelling campaigns that have successfully attracted new, younger customers. New customers in the quarter increased by an impressive 24%. We remain optimistic about the brand's performance for the holiday season. Now I will call your attention to the Free People Group. Once again, the Free People team produced a strong quarter, with Retail segment comp achieving an 8% gain versus last year. Retail segment comp was driven by double-digit growth in the digital channel, while store comps were flat. Retail segment comp sales by month were fairly consistent in the quarter. During the quarter, the brand achieved growth across all major categories with particular strength in accessories, apparel and FP Movement. The FP Movement brand delivered another outstanding quarter, delivering 28% Retail segment growth on top of a very strong multiyear comparison. New and existing Free People Movement stores continue to exceed expectations, which bodes well for continued growth of the brand. Early holiday trends remain positive for the Free People Group, and we believe the brand's Retail segment performance could look similar in Q4 to the third quarter. The Free People Wholesale segment delivered a 4% decrease during the third quarter, driven by weakness in department store accounts, partially offset by strength in specialty account partners. We believe the Wholesale segment sales will decline in the fourth quarter and into next year as our department store partners are planning future orders more conservatively. Additionally, Free People wholesale inventory levels remain higher than we would like, and we are planning on meaningfully reducing our inventory through closeout channels. The planned increase in closeout sales will significantly weigh on wholesale profit rate in the fourth quarter. Now moving on to the Urban Outfitters brand, which delivered a negative 9% Retail segment comp in Q3. UO's negative comp was a result of disappointing performance in North America due to double-digit negative store and digital comp sales. We believe the macro environment in North America is having an outsized impact on the Urban Outfitters customer. This customer shopping behaviors have changed due to reduced discretionary income. They are shopping less free and when they do visit, they are converting at a lower rate. While we know the macro environment for the Urban customer may remain challenging for some period, we also know we can execute better. We believe our product distortion, presentation, inventory management and marketing all have room for improvement. Lastly, as noted, inventory levels in North America are higher than we would like. As a result, the brand in North America will need to be more promotional to clear through excess inventory in Q4. In contrast, Europe continues to perform remarkably well, delivering a 13% retail segment comp for the quarter. Customer traffic was exceptionally strong in stores, inventory levels are in a better position than Q2 and we believe the brand is gaining market share. Reg price and total sales comps were positive for the quarter in all major categories. We believe UO EU can continue to deliver positive Retail segment comps in the fourth quarter, although we do note that the macro environment is getting more difficult due to record levels of inflation. As we look at Q4 for the Urban Outfitters brand, if North America's performance remains consistent with Q3 and with the increased inflation potentially negatively impacting the EU consumer, the global Urban Outfitters brand could deliver results below Q3's results. I will now turn the call over to Melanie, our Chief Financial Officer.