Frank Conforti
Analyst · Barclays. Your line is now open
Thank you, Dick and good afternoon, everyone. I will begin reviewing our total company Q4 results versus fiscal year 2020 followed by additional notes by brand. Total company sales grew by 14% to a fourth quarter record of $1.3 billion driven by a total Retail segment comp sales increase of 14%. All brands posted positive Retail segment comps fueled by strength in full-price selling. Consumer demand began the fourth quarter extremely strong, as many customers were concerned about limited inventory due to the endless news of supply chain disruptions. As the calendar moved closer to the Christmas holiday, demand slowed a bit and then picked back up again in January, as the consumer shifted their focus to warmer weather ahead. During the fourth quarter, demand was strong across almost all categories, with women's apparel and home leading away. Strong full-price selling in these categories led to lower merchandise markdown rates for URBN and at each of our brands. These lower markdown rates were more than offset by significantly higher inbound transportation costs. These expenses were a result of extraordinary supply chain challenges and costs resulting in over 350 basis points of initial product margin deleverage for the quarter. Inflationary pressures from inbound freight, delivery expense, raw materials and wages weighed on overall profit for the quarter producing fourth quarter earnings of $41 million and diluted earnings per share of $0.41. We know that a myriad of supply chain problems throughout the quarter held back our results. We prioritized inventory deliveries during the all-important holiday season, which resulted in much higher-than-anticipated inbound transportation costs. Although supply chain costs will remain elevated throughout the first half of fiscal year 2023, we believe there is opportunity for us to improve our initial product margins versus fiscal year 2022 as the year progresses. We are working on many different initiatives to improve our IMU not just in fiscal year 2023 but over the next several years. As Dick mentioned earlier, we are setting a company-wide target to increase our Retail segment IMU by 500 basis points over the next three years. We believe with improved product distortion, SKU rationalization, fabric positioning, further utilization of 3D product design technology, the execution of several inbound transportation strategies and of course some gentle price increases this goal is achievable. All brands and shared service support functions are aligned and aggressively working towards this goal. Now moving on to detail by segment, starting with the Retail segment. Retail segment sales increased by 15%. This growth was driven by the continued strength in the digital channel. The digital channel continued its rapid growth registered mid double-digit sales gains in North America and even larger gains in Europe. Overall, the strong digital performance was driven by increased sessions, improved conversion and higher AURs. Digital customer growth also remained strong with total customers up 30% to fiscal year 2020 for URBN, with each brand and geography delivering growth. While digital sales remained in the mid-double-digit range comp store sales declined in the low double-digit range versus fiscal year 2020. All brand stores started the holiday season with encouraging results. But as the Omicron variant accelerated, store traffic significantly declined in the weeks leading up to Christmas. We are optimistic as the variant retreats and the weather improves that customers will return to stores in a more meaningful manner. Shifting to the Wholesale segment. Total Wholesale segment sales decreased by 22% versus fiscal year 2020. We Lower sales at Free People were partially offset by an increase in Urban Outfitters sales. As we have discussed previously. Free People has adjusted its wholesale customer mix, cutting back some accounts to better align with its go-forward strategy of concentrating on full-price selling. While the strategy reduced sales in the short term, we believe it will benefit the overall brand in the long term. Elevated inbound transportation costs, weighed more heavily on the Wholesale segment as historically we have brought a healthy percentage of our wholesale product into the country on a boat. To ensure on-time delivery during holiday season, we shifted virtually all of this product to air, this impacted overall wholesale margins by over 1,000 basis points for the fourth quarter. This pressure will persist in early fiscal year 2023. But as we move into the second half of the year, we believe we will see margins improve. We believe under normal supply chain circumstances, the Free People brand would have delivered high-teens operating profit margins for the quarter and we believe those margins are achievable again as we navigate through these logistics challenges. I will now provide more details by brand starting with the Urban Outfitters brand. The Urban brand delivered a 3% Retail segment comp versus fiscal year 2020. UO North America delivered a slightly negative comp and Europe delivered a strong double-digit comp. Both regions comps were driven by double-digit direct sales, which offset negative store comps. The brand drove increased sales despite a significant decrease in promotional activity during the quarter. UO continues to focus on highlighting everyday accessible opening price points in key categories, with fewer dollars and percentage of promotions. This strategy resulted in double-digit full price comps, lower merchandise markdowns, and double-digit AUR gains in both the store and digital channels. In the first quarter, the brand will continue to anniversary a difficult promotional calendar versus last year and we would expect their business to look similar to the fourth quarter. Now, turning to the Anthropologie Group. The group delivered a 14% Retail segment comp in Q4 versus fiscal year 2020. Like the Urban brand, Europe's comp sales exceeded North America, but both regions had solid double-digit Retail segment comps driven by exceptionally strong full price costs, which jumped by more than 50%. This led to nearly 200 basis points improvement in markdown rate. As discussed on the third quarter call, the brand intentionally brought home inventory in earlier than usual and while almost all categories were comp positive, the home category produced the strongest comps in Q4. Anthropologie has experienced strong momentum in the business coming off holiday and their impressive sales continue to be driven by exceptional full-priced product. As a result of a strong trend in holiday, Anthro intentionally pulled forward new spring transitional receipts into January and February. The brand anticipated that the customer would be ready to shop for events again and launched the fully integrated dress campaign called A Dress for Every... on February 7, one month earlier than dress capsules in previous years. They pushed the boundaries on newness and style in this campaign and are proud of the incredible imagery our creative team brought to life. In February, dresses are the fastest-growing category for the brand. She is also buying heels and dressy sandals again both online and in stores. In terms of occasion dressing most notably, the Holden has seen a significant turnaround in business as weddings are being planned again. The brand launched a collection of the Holden-designed wedding gowns in January and the customer is positively responding. We believe the Anthropologie Group including the Holden and Terrain could drive a high teens comp in Q1. Now I will call your attention to the Free People brand. Once again, the Free People team produced an extraordinary quarter with Retail segment comps achieving a staggering 49% gain versus fiscal year 2020. Every product category reported at least a strong double-digit full-price comp, while the total Free People brand generated almost triple-digit direct costs, which easily offset the double-digit negative store comp. Free People's extremely low markdown rate for the quarter led almost 200 basis points improvement in merchandise markdown rate. The FP Movement brand also delivered an outstanding quarter. Retail segment sales grew by over 200% versus fiscal year 2020 and they opened five additional standalone movement stores, bringing the total number to 20 at quarter's end. We remain excited about our FP Movement store performance, which continues to exceed our expectations. The FP Movement stores also drive increased levels of engagement in the community through various events to the brand sponsors. In the fourth quarter, FP Movement customer counts increased triple-digits versus fiscal year 2020 and over 74% versus the prior year. In January, the brand launched a new site and site experience for FP Movement. This will give Movement the ability to expand the conversation and shopping experience with their customers. Spring is off to a strong start at both three people and FC Movement. So we believe both brands could produce stellar results again in Q1. Lastly, I will speak to Nuuly. As we've previously noted, Nuuly is our brand that is most sensitive to our customers' willingness to go out. In December, as Omicron accelerated the Nuuly brand experienced a minor increase in customers pausing their subscriptions. As Omicron has waned and Nuuly's inventory levels have improved, subscriber count growth has recently accelerated. As of today, the brand has over 57,000 active paying subscribers surpassing our fiscal year 2022 goal of 50,000. We are still in the early innings of these rental and resale businesses and we are looking forward to continuing to grow the Nuuly customer base and our learnings over the coming year. I will now turn the call to Melanie, our CFO.