Mary Dillon
Analyst · Oppenheimer
Thank you, Kiley, and good afternoon, everyone. Before we talk about our results, I want to address a topic that's on everyone's mind, the ongoing risk related to the spread of the coronavirus. Our first concern, of course, is the safety and well-being of our associates, guests and brand partners, and we've taken a number of actions focused on prevention to keep people safe and healthy. We've increased sanitation measures and cleaning frequency in all stores with extra focus on product testers and high traffic areas, and we've increased availability of hand sanitizers in high traffic areas, including our cash wraps, makeup stations and salon stations.
We've posted signage in stores directing guests who want to try a product to find an associate who will sanitize testers on demand. In addition, we're implementing a no-touch approach when it comes to selling assistance, like shade matching. We have temporarily suspended all makeup, skin and brow services in stores. Based on feedback from experts, we will continue to offer hair services with an increased focus on maintaining the health and safety of our guests and associates.
For our associates, we're encouraging them to stay home if they're not feeling well, and we're adjusting our policies to accommodate personal and family needs and ensuring that associates who face a quarantine are compensated during that time. We've also limited travel in the U.S. and restricted international travel, and we're limiting in-person meetings, especially for large groups. And as a further step, we've canceled our Annual General Managers Conference originally scheduled for April.
We're closely monitoring guidance from public health officials and government agencies to make sure we have the best information to keep our associates and guests safe and informed. We have a cross-functional team meeting daily to respond to and plan for any potential impacts this may have on our associates or our operations, and we're working closely with our partners to manage any potential disruption to our supply chain. Given the highly uncertain nature of the situation, we are actively assessing various actions we can take to manage our business differently during the current environment.
Now I'd like to turn back to our normal course of business before opening up to your questions. Moving on to our results for 2019 and expectations for 2020. Starting with the fourth quarter. The Ulta Beauty team delivered sales and earnings that were at the high end of our expectations. To recap our fourth quarter financial performance, total sales increased 8.5%, and comp store sales increased 4% on top of a strong 9.4% comp last year. Gross margin for the quarter expanded by 10 basis points, and diluted EPS increased 7.8%. These results were achieved despite ongoing challenges in the U.S. makeup category.
As we've discussed on previous earnings calls, the makeup category in the U.S. is experiencing a down cycle. The U.S. makeup category was negative again this quarter across both prestige and mass measured channels. We knew the fourth quarter would be challenging, given both the category headwinds in makeup and the fact that we're lapping a very strong fourth quarter last year. But our enhanced omnichannel capabilities, combined with our merchandise exclusives and cross-category marketing events, helped us deliver a successful quarter.
Consumer shopping patterns continue to evolve with convenient online options becoming more important during key shopping periods. Retailers who offer a great in-store experience as well as great online and omnichannel experiences, will benefit from these shifts.
With increased distribution center shipping capacity, Buy Online, Pick Up In Store options available in every store and enhanced app and mobile platforms in place, including a new virtual waiting room to improve the guests experience on Black Friday, Ulta Beauty was well positioned for shifting consumer preferences this holiday season and delivered strong double-digit growth in e-commerce sales.
We kicked off the holiday season in mid-November with Ulta Beauty Fest. With product demonstrations, influencer activations and merchandise giveaways, this new in-store event drove nice traffic to our stores and helped us comp last year's very successful launches of Kylie Cosmetics and the James Charles Palette by Morphe. Our new holiday campaign, Give, Gather, & Glow, position Ulta Beauty as the go-to destination for all things beauty and included improved promotions like Holiday Beauty Blitz and our cross-channel gift guide to inspire and help our guests with their holiday shopping.
In fact, holiday is a great time of year for Ulta Beauty because we participate in both gift-giving and as well what we call glamming, which is guests preparing for holiday parties and events. And with services optimization fully implemented in all stores, we saw good growth in our hair, skin and lash services during the quarter.
We delivered strong comp performance through key holiday periods, including Black Friday and Cyber Monday, and finished the holiday season well. Importantly, our teams did a great job resetting post-holiday and executing on our January events, Jumbo Love and Love Your Skin. And as a result, we saw a nice acceleration in sales and traffic trends post Christmas.
Now turning to our performance by category. We increased our market share across all major beauty categories. The skincare category delivered the strongest growth this quarter, with prestige, mass and sun care, all delivering double-digit comps. Fragrance and PCA important gift categories and haircare all delivered high single-digit comp growth this quarter.
As expected, our makeup category was down slightly again this quarter driven by low single-digit decline in prestige cosmetics. Growth from newer brands like Kylie Cosmetics, KKW Beauty and Grande Cosmetics as well as growth from iconic prestige brands like Clinique partially driven by the expansion of these brands to additional doors, was offset by sales declines in many of our established prestige brands.
Mass cosmetics delivered a low single-digit comp for the quarter on top of robust double-digit growth in the fourth quarter of last year. Strong sales of brands exclusive to Ulta, including ColourPop, Florence and Juvia's Place helped to offset the impact of anniversarying the launch of the James Charles Palette last year.
Turning now to the full year. While fiscal 2019 was more challenging than we initially planned, I'm proud of how our teams reacted and adjusted to the unexpected headwinds in the U.S. makeup category and delivered solid results for our shareholders. From a financial perspective, total sales increased 10% to $7.4 billion, and comp store sales increased 5%. We expanded gross profit margin and delivered EPS growth of 11%. Importantly, this year, we made good progress across each of our strategic imperatives, which positioned us to deliver industry-leading growth and long-term shareholder value.
Some of the highlights of 2019. We opened up 86 new stores, remodeled 12 stores, relocated 8 and refreshed 240 stores. We increased our unaided brand awareness by 3 points from 53% to 56% with increases across every demographic group. We gained market share across all major beauty categories. We expanded membership in Ultamate Rewards by 8% to 34.3 million active members and increased our average spend per member to $206.
We grew Diamond and Platinum membership by 10%, which outpaced overall portfolio growth, and continue to retain these members at very high rates. We increased the number of cardholders in our Ultamate Rewards credit card program by 40%, thanks to outstanding execution from both our store and digital teams in engaging with our guests. We increased our penetration of omnichannel members. While the percentage of members to shop in-store only remains in the low 80s, the percentage of members who shop online and in-store increased to just over 12% of total members.
We expanded the distribution for our iconic prestige brands, including Clinique, Lancôme, MAC and Estée Lauder to more doors. In total, we rolled out 973 expressions of these brands in 2019 in various in-store presentations. We completed the rollout of services optimization in all stores. As a result, we significantly improved our retention of stylists and aestheticians and are seeing encouraging trends in guest retention and average ticket.
We delivered strong double-digit growth in e-commerce sales on top of strong double-digit growth last year. We completed the rollout of Buy Online, Pick Up In Store in all stores, refreshed our mobile app and launched Afterpay as a new payment option for online purchases. We seamlessly transitioned our Romeoville distribution center into a fast fulfillment center and improved the productivity in our full-service facilities, resulting in faster e-commerce order processing for our guests and more consistent on-time deliveries to our stores as well as better in-stocks during the holiday season.
We began planning and building the capabilities to operate as a global beauty brand. And we continue to strengthen our culture and again achieved industry-leading associate engagement scores and accelerated our diversity and inclusion efforts across the company, culminating a national recognition, including Forbes Best Employers for Women and Best Employers for Diversity. We also raised more than $5 million to benefit life-changing breast cancer research at BCRF.
Now 2019 was not without challenges, but by keeping our guests and our associates at the center of all of our decisions, staying focused on the longer-term growth opportunities and also staying agile and flexible in the moment, our teams delivered solid results.
As I describe now our priorities for 2020, I want to acknowledge that these plans were developed before the recent changes we've made to services and do not consider any prolonged disruption to demand resulting from coronavirus. As I said earlier, we're actively assessing various actions we may take to react to the current environment, but the theme still hold and are important to discuss.
So first, in 2020, we expect the makeup -- U.S. makeup category will continue to be challenged, and we built a plan that reflects these headwinds while also supporting opportunities for longer-term growth. Starting with our strategic imperative to drive growth across beauty enthusiast segment and strengthen the Ulta Beauty brand, in 2019, we continue to evolve our guest messaging to reflect our brand purpose. We created stronger, more immersive storytelling in all of our communications, and we launched key partnerships with NBCUniversal Telemundo, ESSENCE and Allure to connect with key consumer segments. We also continue to optimize our marketing mix and invested in channels that drive even stronger returns, including mass channels, multicultural media, digital, streaming and emerging channels like podcast. Building on these successes in 2020, we'll continue to elevate media partnerships that help us raise awareness and deepen our connection with key beauty enthusiast segment and increase our focus on cross-category storytelling and events that reflects how our guests engage with beauty.
Moving to our efforts to deepen love and loyalty with our members, in 2019, we added 2.5 million guests to our loyalty program and increased our average spend per member driven by double-digit growth in our lead membership levels, credit card program and mix of omnichannel guests as well as our personalization efforts. With more than 34 million active members, we built a differentiated loyalty program that engages guests and provides us with valuable customer insights. As the program matures and as new store growth flows, we know that absolute new member growth will continue to moderate. In 2020, we'll focus our efforts to attract, educate and engage new members while also reaching out to members who haven't shopped with us in a while. We'll also sharpen our focus on increasing spend per member through more personalized experiences across categories and channels.
Turning now to our strategy to delight our guests with a one of a kind world-class beauty assortment, our focus in 2020 is on increasing our market share across all major beauty categories, especially in skincare, haircare and makeup. Skincare delivered double-digit comp growth and was our fastest-growing category in 2019 and remains a meaningful growth opportunity for us. In 2019, we added 47 new skincare brands to our assortment, including The Ordinary, Sunday Riley, Urban Skin Rx and most recently, belif skincare. We also increased selling space in stores and enhanced our marketing communications to support this growing category. In 2020, we'll continue these efforts with a focus on further expanding the assortment across channels to highlight emerging brands and product innovation, and we'll increase associate training and education in this category.
Haircare delivered high single-digit comp growth in 2019 driven by newness and a focus on key categories like color and texture. Newness in 2019, including popular brands like IGK and OUAI as well as exclusive brands like Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross and Curlsmith. In 2020, we'll continue to focus on growth areas like texture and color care, and we'll look for additional opportunities to gain share in prestige hair. We also plan to leverage our salons and experienced stylists with signature hair events to highlight brands, educate guests and drive sales.
Makeup remains our largest category and delivered low single-digit comp growth in 2019. While the category continues to face near-term sales headwinds, our research continues to show strong interest in makeup among Gen Z and millennial segment. Leveraging our proprietary research and loyalty member data, in 2020, we'll focus on key brands that are driving growth, look to add new brands that address assortment opportunities and continue to explore co-creation opportunities.
And finally, Clean beauty continues to be a growing area of interest with our guests. Guests are engaging in a variety of areas within beauty, including ingredients, animal testing and sustainable packaging. While the demand for Clean products is strong and growing, the landscape is challenging. Regulation, particularly related to chemicals, doesn't provide the clarity that guests need or want in this space. Guests are seeking transparency and choice in the products that are aligned to their personal values, but they need help navigating the complexities. So in 2020, we intend to provide our guests with a framework to help them evaluate products based on what's most important to them. Our goal is to give our guests access to more choices, guide them along their journey and celebrate the brands and products that are aligned with this mission. We'll share more about these efforts on future calls.
Now moving on to beauty services. In 2019, we completed the rollout of services optimization to all stores, and as a result, delivered better trends in average ticket, guest retention and satisfaction and product attachment. We also increased stylist retention and strengthened our recruitment of experienced stylists with established client books. In 2020, we'll work to optimize these investments and to drive further improvements. To support these efforts, we'll introduce our new proprietary online booking and scheduling tool in all stores this spring. Available through the Ulta Beauty app, this tool will make it easier and more convenient for guests to schedule and manage their salon service appointment, and it will make it easier for our associates to manage their guest books.
Beyond our new booking tool, we've increased our focus on reinventing digital engagement. In 2019, we refreshed the Ulta Beauty app to incorporate more personalization, reinforce the value of our loyalty program and make it even easier to shop directly from the app. We also leveraged augmented reality capabilities to provide virtual try-on experiences for our guests across multiple categories. Building on these capabilities, in 2020, we'll invest to accelerate engagement with the app with the goal of transforming the app into the Ulta Beauty personal shopping assistant, where guests can track and activate points, respond to app-only personalized offers, schedule services, check store availability, engage with BOPIS and play with new looks, including lashes, brows, makeup and hair.
Now let me give you a quick update on our ongoing efforts to drive operational excellence and deliver efficiencies for growth. In 2019, we have leveraged our size and scale to deliver cost savings, improved key merchandise planning processes and enhanced processes to support core operational disciplines across our real estate and supply chain operations. As a result, we delivered meaningful savings to fund investments.
In 2020, we'll build on these efforts and work to improve our operational execution through enhancing our merchandising effectiveness, optimizing our supply chain network, enhancing fulfillment capabilities and capturing additional efficiencies for growth. We'll also work to ensure we delivered expected returns from investments and process improvements we made in 2018 and 2019.
Finally, in 2020, we'll continue to invest to build our international capabilities as we continue to believe this is an important long-term growth opportunity. As we discussed in previous calls, Canada will be our first step towards becoming a global beauty brand and will allow us to build experience and capabilities to expand successfully into other international markets. We intend to leverage U.S. best practices to preserve what has made Ulta Beauty successful, but we'll also enhance our assortment, systems and processes to ensure that we address the unique needs of our Canadian guests.
In 2019, we began the effort developing our strategies, plans and requirements. In 2020, we'll ready our systems and processes and begin hiring and training new associates with the goal of offering an omnichannel experience for Canadian guests in 2021.
So today, we've shared with you our priorities for 2020. While we believe the U.S. makeup category will return to growth at some point, we believe it's prudent to build a plan for 2020 that assumes no improvements this year. We can certainly adjust if we start to see positive momentum in the category.
Before Scott discusses the financials in more detail, I want to talk about how we're thinking about the longer-term growth opportunity for Ulta Beauty. At our analyst meeting in late 2018, we talked about growth targets for 2019 through 2021 of comp sales growth in the 5% to 7% range, modest operating margin expansion and earnings growth in the mid- to high teens. Since we initially shared these expectations, the U.S. makeup category has experienced much slower sales trends than we initially expected. We remain very optimistic about our future. The beauty market is growing, and the Ulta Beauty model is strong and winning share. And we remain confident that we will see a return to growth in the U.S. makeup category, although the exact timing of recovery is still uncertain.
Without improvement in the U.S. makeup category, we believe we can deliver comp growth in the range of 3% to 4% and EPS growth in the high single-digit range, and our expectations for 2020 after adjusting for incentive compensation and tax benefits in 2019 are in line with this view. While we're confident that the U.S. makeup category will return to growth, it's unlikely that it will return to the elevated levels of growth seen during the most recent up-cycle. However, with more normalized growth in the U.S. makeup category, we think we can deliver mid-single-digit comp growth and low double-digit EPS growth.
And with that, I'll turn it over to Scott to discuss our financial results and outlook for 2020 in more detail.