Mary Dillon
Analyst · Jefferies
Thank you, Kiley, and good afternoon, everyone. The Ulta Beauty team delivered another quarter of solid top line performance, gross margin expansion and double-digit earnings growth. To recap our financial performance for the quarter, total sales grew 12%; comp store sales increased 6.2% on top of 6.5% growth in the second quarter of last year; gross margin expanded by 40 basis points; and diluted earnings per share, excluding the tax benefits, increased 11.5%.
Looking forward, however, we've adjusted our expectations for the second half of 2019 to reflect the headwinds and volatility we're currently seeing in the U.S. cosmetics market, and we'll share more with you how we're thinking about the current sales environment. But let me reiterate, our differentiated model is winning in the marketplace, and we continue to invest in building the long-term capabilities that will further expand our leadership position in the dynamic beauty industry.
Year-to-date, we've continued to expand our market share across most categories, increased our brand awareness, delivered double-digit growth in active loyalty members, increased traffic and delivered double-digit growth in almost every key merchandise category. I will also add that our salon business is showing real comp strength as we're executing on our optimization strategies.
That said, the cosmetics category at Ulta, which is roughly 50% of our business and one of our highest margin categories, has only delivered in the low single-digit growth year-to-date, well outperforming the market, but below our expectations. So let me explain more.
Ulta Beauty continues to drive meaningful market share growth in makeup across mass and prestige, but it's clear that cosmetics in the overall U.S. market is challenged. After several years of very strong performance, growth in the makeup category has been decelerating over the last 2 years, but recently turned negative. Based on the latest track data, the cosmetics category in the total U.S. market has experienced mid-single-digit declines through the first 6 months of 2019 and has been more volatile in recent weeks.
Notably, when we look at sales growth by brand, we see that most of the top brands across both mass and prestige are negative year-to-date. We'd expected this trend to stabilize and improve as we move through 2019, but we now believe that the softness we've seen so far in 2019 will continue through the remainder of the year.
We believe that the main issue driving this softer cycle in cosmetics is that the newness and innovation that have been the focus of most brands this year has just not driven the kind of incremental growth we've enjoyed for some period of time. Over the past several years, we've seen strong growth in cosmetics, driven by new rituals and application techniques, like contouring and brow styling, and innovative new product formats like liquid lip, palettes and minis. This innovation resulted in new makeup routines requiring new products which drove strong incremental growth. The most recent cycle of innovation has just not driven those behaviors, resulting in a soft cycle for the cosmetics category in the U.S. as innovation and newness brought to the market has not driven the expected growth.
By contrast, as I mentioned earlier, we're seeing very strong growth in every other category. In the case of skincare, category and brand innovation is driving new rituals and incremental purchases, thus driving strong comps. And we're continuing to drive market share gains in the category, but of course, skin care is a smaller part of the business.
We believe the industry-wide challenges in the makeup category will continue in the near term, and as a result, we've adjusted our outlook for the rest of 2019 to reflect ongoing volatility in the category.
Leveraging our guest insights, we are working very closely with all of our brand partners to ensure that the innovation pipeline pivots to more exciting incremental innovation. We are optimistic the cosmetic category in the U.S. market will move back to growth, but we need more time to move through this innovation cycle.
In the meantime, our team is laser focused on the exceptional execution and guest experience that we know our team delivers in-store and online. We'll continue to build on our momentum in non-makeup categories while we work to stabilize growth in makeup categories. To that end, we have a number of exciting new and exclusive product launches planned for the second half which I'll discuss in more detail in a little bit.
Despite the near-term headwinds, we remain confident that our differentiated and diverse business model, our commitment to our strategic investment, and our highly engaged associates will continue to drive market share gains and deliver strong returns for our shareholders. Let me give you now an update on the progress we've made this year on our strategic imperatives.
Our first strategic imperative is to drive growth across beauty enthusiast segments, and we're making good progress. Reflecting data for the February through July period, Ulta Beauty now represents 24.5% of the prestige beauty market, as tracked by NPD, an increase of 210 basis points from a year ago.
We continue to expand our brick-and-mortar footprint. In the second quarter, we opened 17 net new stores, relocated 4 stores and remodeled 8 stores compared to 19 net new stores, 1 relocation and 7 remodels in the second quarter of last year, ending the quarter with 1,213 stores. New store productivity remains strong, with first year sales trending ahead of plan, and we remain on track to open 80 stores this year.
Now turning to our second imperative, to deepen love and loyalty for the Ulta Beauty brand, our brand awareness continues to grow, and our "Possibilities are Beautiful" campaign and inclusive positioning have been very well received and very effective as measured by our marketing analytics tools. Unaided awareness grew by 5 points to 56% compared to the same period a year ago, and our aided awareness increased to 91% from 90%.
Importantly, we continue to strengthen our connection with consumers across the spectrum, including the increasingly influential Gen Z segment, where we've been recognized as a leader among beauty retailers. Guests also continue to respond well to the compelling combination of our loyalty, credit card and gift card programs, resulting in double-digit growth in all 3 programs for the second quarter.
Our Ultamate Rewards loyalty program has grown to 33.2 million active members, an increase of about 13% since the second quarter of last year. We continue to see nice growth in the number of guests who achieve platinum and diamond status, our most engaged guests as well as growth in overall sales per member.
Our loyalty members account for more than 95% of sales, and we're using insights about preferences to create more personalized recommendations, replenishment reminders and unique offers, all to drive deeper engagement and increase spend per member. We're making nice progress on this effort as the number of guests receiving these personalized recommendations and replenishment reminders continues to grow.
We've also begun to use artificial intelligence in our effort to drive promotional effectiveness. By leveraging data, we're identifying guest responsiveness to different types of offers and using these insights to help us determine the best offer to present to each guest with the goal of building a larger basket and driving incremental sales.
Our marketing events in the second quarter were anchored by omnichannel campaigns, including our Gorgeous Hair event, our new Summer Splash campaign and our semiannual Jumbo Love event. We augmented these multiweek events with a number of new smaller events, including Mascara Bonanza and National Lipstick Day.
Now turning to our imperative to deliver a world-class beauty assortment. Our merchant team is doing a great job curating a highly differentiated omnichannel offering across all of our categories. Newness drove about 20% of our total comp this quarter, driven primarily by new items in skincare and cosmetics.
From a category standpoint, we saw strong sales growth this quarter in skincare, hair care and personal care appliances. Skincare continues to be one of our strongest growth categories, with prestige, mask and sun care all delivering double-digit comps this quarter. As I mentioned earlier, this category strength is being driven by strong innovation, supported by new ingredients like moisturizers with SPF and sunless tanners and new skincare rituals like serums and masks.
Mask skincare delivered strong comps driven by growth from both new and core brands. We implemented our mask skincare reset in July and added several new brands for assortment such as ACURE, a clean skincare line; and a brand called Naturally Good For You, which includes both skincare and supplements in the regime. We also launched The Ordinary, a skincare collection founded to offer results-driven products at an affordable price point. We initially launched The Ordinary on ulta.com and recently expanded the brand to 400 stores. Sales in suncare were also robust driven by an expanded selection of self-tanning products and sun protection options.
In prestige skincare, newer brands like Kiehl's and Tula Life drove strong guest engagement, while more established brands like Dermalogica benefited from strong product newness. In addition, new exclusive emerging brands, including Awake, Fountain of Truth and Cannuka all contributed to the strong growth in the second quarter. And earlier this month, we launched a favorite indie brand Sunday Riley in all stores, and later this quarter, we'll extend our exclusive partnership with Kylie Cosmetics with the introduction of our full line of Kylie Skin also in all doors.
Haircare delivered another quarter of strong high single-digit comp growth, reflecting the success of our Gorgeous Hair and Jumbo Love events and supported by the reflow we completed in the first quarter. Fragrance delivered solid mid-single-digit growth this quarter, driven primarily by Ulta Beauty exclusive as well as newness from luxury brands YSL and Versace. We have some exciting new exclusives coming in fragrance this quarter, including Thank U, Next, a fragrance from Ariana Grande. Personal care appliances delivered strong double-digit growth driven by strong demand for Dyson products and the Revlon One-Step Volumizer Hair Dryer as well as new one-step products from Bed Head and Hot Tools.
Now as we discussed earlier, the cosmetics category overall at Ulta delivered low single-digit comp for the quarter, reflecting double-digit growth in mass cosmetics and low single-digit growth in prestige cosmetics, including ICONIC brand. This performance was in spite of weak category trends in the U.S. market, as I mentioned before, especially in prestige. Due to the strength of our business model and ability to secure some important exclusives, we continue to drive significant market share gains in the category.
Mass cosmetics continued to benefit from the reflow we completed earlier this year which allocated additional space for exclusive or limited distribution brands. In addition, newness continues to drive strong growth in traffic, especially with our exclusive brick-and-mortar brands such as Morphe and Juvia's Place. In addition, we continued to deliver newness and innovation through the Ulta Beauty Collection. In the second quarter, we partnered with Frida Kahlo Corporation to launch an exclusive makeup line within the Ulta Beauty Collection, and guest response to the collection has exceeded our expectation.
And earlier this month, we debuted the exclusive Girls United collection, created by 6 talented African-American young women through a special mentoring initiative with ESSENCE magazine. Prestige cosmetics was mixed. We continue to see strong growth from our iconic prestige brands driven primarily by the expansion of Clinique and Lancôme to additional stores.
In addition, prestige cosmetics sales benefited from strong growth from new brands such as Kylie Cosmetics, and newness, including the introduction of Tarte's Big Ego Mascara, which launched [ versatile ] to Beauty, and the expansion of a collection of vegan and cruelty-free lashes for multiple brands, including Tarte and Velour. These gains were offset by soft performance in a number of other established brands in the portfolio.
Looking forward to the second half of the year, we have a number of new exclusive product and brand launches planned, which we believe will have a strong appeal for our guests. In prestige, we have an exciting new exclusive brand launch planned this quarter. KKW Beauty by Kim Kardashian West is coming to Ulta Beauty. With more than 146 million Instagram followers, Kim is one of the strongest forces in pop culture, and we are very excited to extend our partnership with her.
The new collection will launch with 67 SKUs and include products that are most iconic to Kim, including contour and highlight kits, new lip and versatile eye looks. And for holiday, we'll offer our guests 2 exclusive holiday kits available only at Ulta Beauty.
We also have some exciting news to share in mass cosmetics. We just unveiled the launch of Florence by Mills, a collection created by Millie Bobby Brown, star of a Stranger Things. Millie is an influential voice within her generation, and has more than 27 million followers on Instagram. Exclusive to Ulta Beauty, Florence by Mills offers a fresh, fun approach to clean beauty with a universal range of both skincare and makeup products that will appeal to all guests, especially Gen Z.
In addition, we have a number of new Morphe collaborations with key influencers in the pipeline for the second half. The first collaboration launched just this week with Jeffree Star, one of the most prominent social media influencers in beauty today, and offers guests a collection of makeup and accessories.
As we've discussed on previous calls, emerging brands and digitally native brands are driving new growth within the beauty channel. At Ulta Beauty, we have a strong track record of successfully working with digitally native and emerging beauty brands. And our footprint of more than 1,200 stores and more than 30 million loyalty members positions us very well to be a great partner to these brands as they evolve and expand their reach.
To support this effort, last year, we created a new dedicated team within our merchandising organization to focus on identifying smaller or emerging brands across all beauty categories and working with them closely to ensure they're successful in a retail environment. Year-to-date, this team has launched more than 30 unique new brands.
To showcase these brands and give guests the opportunity to discover, explore and play with new emerging brands, we debuted Sparked at Ulta Beauty at Beautycon earlier this month. Sparked at Ulta Beauty is a new platform designed to feature a curated, ever-evolving selection of emerging brands across all categories in select stores and on ulta.com.
While we're optimistic that these exciting makeup initiatives will enable us to continue to gain market share throughout the remainder of the year, we believe the U.S. cosmetics category will continue to be soft in the second half, driving further declines in several leading brands and pressuring total makeup results at Ulta.
Now moving on to our imperative to transform the in-store and beauty services experience, we've completed our services optimization program at all stores, and we are very encouraged by the improving trends we're seeing across the board, in staff recruitment and retention, average ticket and guest engagement. As a reminder, this effort is both associate and guest-facing.
To attract and retain top talent, we've implemented a more compelling compensation structure and a newly formed field-based leadership team to support industry-leading training and education programs. For the guests, we've simplified our service menu, introduced new services and made our pricing easier to understand.
We continue to leverage our highly influential Pro Hair team, which is made up of industry-leading educators and platform artists, which helps us attract top talent. This talented and award-winning team is creating excitement and raising awareness of Ulta Beauty's brand within the beauty industry through participation in national and local events that highlight the artistry and opportunity that exist at Ulta Beauty.
In addition to optimizing the services business, we're also integrating our services business with more of our marketing campaigns and larger merchandising strategies. In conjunction with our Gorgeous Hair event, we launched a new blowout program, introducing 5 new looks created by the award-winning Ulta Beauty Pro team. And we continue to leverage back bar takeovers to introduce new brands like Living Proof and ELEMIS to guests and to drive add-on purchases.
Now I'll turn to our fifth strategic imperative, to reinvent beauty digital engagement. During the second quarter, we successfully completed the rollout of buy online, pick-up in store to all stores. While it's still early, guest response to this convenient omnichannel experience has exceeded our initial expectations. We know our omnichannel guests are our best guests, and we believe this capability will make it even easier for guests to seamlessly shop between our online store and our physical stores. In conjunction with the launch of BOPIS, we also enhanced our mobile site and app with an improved product detail page that has a cleaner look and feel, including better visibility to in-store inventory availability.
We continue to leverage augmented reality and artificial intelligence to create compelling beauty experiences for our guests. During the second quarter, we updated GLAM LAB, our virtual try and experience, to include live try on for Android devices. We also began testing our skincare virtual beauty adviser online, which is powered by AI and AR, and provides guests easy ways to get skincare advice.
Lastly, I'd like to announce 2 partnerships in the digital space. First, we recently announced a new exclusive partnership with Samsung and Revieve to provide beauty enthusiasts with access to personalized skincare diagnostic information, targeted product recommendations and the ability to quickly purchase products from ulta.com directly through Samsung's virtual assistant, Bixby Vision.
And second, later this year, we'll offer our guests the ability to use Afterpay on ulta.com. We know that some guests, particularly younger ones, are sensitive to accumulating personal debt. Afterpay allow shoppers to receive products immediately and pay for them in 4 installments without taking out a traditional loan or paying upfront fees or interests. Afterpay's "buy now, pay later" option will offer guests more freedom and flexibility without the wait. Underpinning and fueling our strategic imperatives are our ongoing efforts to deliver operational excellence and drive greater efficiencies. We continue to enhance our supply chain investments, including a recent end-to-end optimization of our store shipment categories, which both improve DC processing efficiency and reduce sorting time for products in stores. In addition, our store on-time delivery trend continued to improve this quarter delivering 80 basis points of improvement over last year.
And finally, we continue to make progress toward our goal of 2-day e-commerce shipping by 2021, with the successful conversion of our Romeoville distribution center to an e-commerce fast fulfillment center. The team completed the transition seamlessly and was able to leverage much of the existing infrastructure for the new operation. The facility began fulfilling guest orders in early August and is currently fulfilling about 10% of our total e-commerce volume.
With that, I'll turn it over to Scott to discuss our second quarter financials and our updated outlook for the rest of the year in more detail.