Mary Dillon
Analyst · Evercore ISI
Thank you, Laurel. Good afternoon, everyone. Our third quarter results clearly demonstrate the strength and distinct advantages of the Ulta Beauty business model. We delivered a double-digit comp in spite of a moderation in the growth rate of our largest category, makeup, and meaningful disruption from hurricanes. We flexed our merchandising and marketing plans, leveraged our consumer insights and CRM platform and worked with our brand partners to create compelling offers for our guests. We also benefited from the unmatched breadth of beauty categories and products that we offer. These levers allowed us to drive significant share gains, continue to rapidly grow our base of loyalty members and thrive in spite of shifting category trends within the beauty industry and disruption in some of our largest markets.
Before I share our results, including the financial impact of the hurricanes, I'd like to take a moment to mention the fantastic job our teams did to prepare for the storms, support our field associates who were personally impacted and get our stores back up and running following an incredibly challenging time for these regions. It was truly inspiring to see the collaboration and caring from all corners of our organization to manage through this period.
To recap our third quarter financial performance. We grew the top line 18.6% and delivered healthy 10.3% comps on top of 16.7% comps in the third quarter of 2016, an acceleration on a 2-year stack compared to the second quarter. The disruption from the hurricanes in Florida and Texas negatively impacted our results by a little more than 1 point of comp. Comp sales were driven by balanced traffic and ticket growth and continued strength in e-commerce.
In terms of category trends, our highest sales growth was in skincare and fragrance, while haircare also strengthened. Makeup, while still producing very healthy growth by any standard, was softer compared to last year when it drove a disproportionate amount of our comp growth.
GAAP diluted earnings per share of $1.70 grew 21.4%. We delivered better-than-expected EPS growth despite gross margins contracting a bit more than initially planned. Some of this margin pressure was expected, driven by new store and boutique activity in the quarter and marketing and test-and-learn activities pushed back from the first quarter into the back half.
In light of the hurricane disruption and the moderation in color cosmetics growth, we decided to boost our CRM and promotional activity. This allowed us to continue to drive strong market share gains and rapid membership growth in our Ultamate Rewards loyalty program.
I'll turn now to a more detailed discussion of the strategies that drove our results in the third quarter, beginning with our strategic imperative to acquire new guests and deepen loyalty of existing guests. Our loyalty program continues to deliver significant benefits, and well over 90% of our sales are captured through the program. At the end of October, our Ultamate Rewards program grew to 26.4 million active members, up 21% year-over-year. Retention rates, sales per member, frequency of purchase and average member ticket are healthy and stable.
To update you on our efforts to increase adoption of our credit card which we launched last year, we've rolled out in-store initiatives to drive awareness and are offering new incentives like free gift with sign-up in addition to savings on guest's first purchase with the card. We also launched the capability to apply online and buy which drove significantly higher online applications. Credit card sign-ups continue to grow with new accounts and conversion above plan, and we're continuing to garner a much higher share of wallet of our customers who signed up for the credit card.
We're also very pleased with the growth in third-party distribution of gift cards through our Blackhawk relationship. We rolled out our gift cards to 10 additional retail partners in the third quarter, bringing our reach to 13,000 stores. We plan to add another 500 stores with 3 additional grocery chains in the fourth quarter, with more retail partners in the pipeline. Aided by this expansion, gift card sales grew nearly 50% in the third quarter with expectations for a strong fourth quarter performance.
Now turning to our marketing programs. We executed another successful 21 Days Of Beauty event in September. Historically, this has been a promotion focused on color cosmetics with the strategic intent of migrating customers from our primarily mass basket to a richer basket, blending mass and prestige items. This year, we incorporated skincare items to take advantage of the current strong trends in skincare. We improved our overall offering, featuring highly sought-after brands and products like MAC lipsticks, and increased influencer content across Ulta Beauty channels, digital partner platforms and influencers' own channels, which all drove excitement for the event.
In October, we had strong results with our signature Gorgeous Hair event and focused on our partnership with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. We built on the success of our Gorgeous Way to Give campaign, performing 42,000 services during our salon Cut for a Cause event, partnered once again with The Ellen DeGeneres Show, garnered more than 5 million views of our new social media campaign featuring breast cancer survivors with an empowering and inspiring message and executed a series of activities all month long in stores, distribution centers and in corporate. We raised $4 million this year alone to fund research projects to support BCRF's quest for a cure.
We continue to partner with Refinery29 in the iHeart Music Festival to drive brand awareness, and we launched a new partnership with Allure Magazine to enhance our position as a beauty destination. This partnership included an Allure Magazine curated mini book called Shop Like a Beauty Editor. This book features the favorite picks of Allure beauty editors available at Ulta Beauty. The program also highlighted digital content from Allure editors in their e-mails and the mix section on ulta.com.
We also became the exclusive and presenting sponsor of Demi Lovato's Simply Complicated, which is a full-length documentary on YouTube that gives an intimate look into the life of the popular star. The video has already been viewed more than 10 million times. The partnership includes 3 get-the-look videos featuring products sold at Ulta Beauty. These efforts are part of our multiyear strategy to increase awareness of the Ulta Beauty brand, which has led to all-time high results for this metric. Aided brand awareness now stands at 87%, up from 84% last year, while unaided brand awareness grew to 50% compared to 41% last year.
Next, I'd like to provide an update on our merchandising initiatives. The Ulta Beauty team did a fantastic job maximizing our brand partnerships, ensuring that must-have and often-exclusive product is on our shelves. We continue to drive rapid market share gains across the board with particular strength in prestige beauty. According to third quarter data tracked by the NPD group, Ulta Beauty continued to rapidly grow our share of prestige makeup, accelerated our gains in prestige skincare and fragrance and added 320 basis points of market share in prestige beauty overall. Year-to-date, Ulta Beauty grew the prestige segment by 28% while all other retail tracked by NPD only grew in the low single digits, netting to a total prestige beauty industry growth rate of 5%.
Our broad and balanced portfolio of product categories and brands continues to be a lever in our ability to deliver healthy comps. Skincare in both mass and prestige, fragrance, professional haircare, sun care, accessories and personal care appliances all delivered well above average growth. Similar to what we discussed last quarter, the industry overall seems to be experiencing a bit of a lull in innovation in color cosmetics, although not across all brands. Our prestige boutiques featuring Clinique, Lancôme, MAC and Benefit brands were very strong as we continue to roll out 700 boutiques this year. These 4 high-growth brands contributed almost 1/3 of our total comp growth during the quarter.
We are delighted with our new partnership with MAC. At the end of the quarter, we had 107 stores rolled out, and we'll have approximately 120 boutiques by year-end. We also rolled out 5 of MAC's hero SKUs in our impulse fixtures across the chain. Our assortment features several exclusive instant artistry kits available only at Ulta Beauty. MAC has quickly become the #1 brand at 80% of the stores where it's launched, and is a close second in the rest. Our consumer insights team has surveyed our MAC guests with their findings demonstrating that we're helping to recruit a new consumer to the brand, with roughly 50% of the MAC buyers at Ulta either new to MAC or lapsed MAC users who haven't purchased the brand in over a year.
Beyond the prestige boutiques, we've seen the rest of our prestige color cosmetics category slowing compared to last year's exceptional pace of growth, but prestige makeup is still very healthy and comping in the high single digits. Many of our brands like Tarte and Too Faced are delivering strong innovation and double-digit comps. Encouragingly, color cosmetics, both mass and prestige were very strong during Black Friday weekend, which we believe bodes well for this category during the holiday season.
We're also excited about developments on the mass side of the assortment in makeup, with e.l.f. rolling out chain-wide next year and cult favorite, Morphe, a social media influencer brand focused on eyeshadow palettes and brushes, added to 300 doors in ulta.com. Another brand born on social media is Dose of Colors, which was available online-only for the past several months. Following its success in ulta.com, we recently introduced 2 popular palettes to 400 stores and will be adding 21 lip and eyeshadow Dose of Colors SKUs in time for holiday.
So fragrance was another highlight during the quarter comping in the high teens, with success in the base business and several strong new launches, including Chanel Gabrielle, Gucci Bloom and Carolina Herrera Good Girl. We continue to launch exclusive fragrances like Ballet Rose from Philosophy and an exclusive line of 4 fragrances from Kate Spade.
Both prestige and mass skincare comped well above the house, with newness from No7, Yes To, Skinfood and MEMEBOX driving strength in mass skincare; and Mario Badescu, Dermalogica, Peter Thomas Roth and Juice Beauty driving exceptional growth on the prestige side of skincare.
Our professional haircare category was bolstered by the rollout of Bumble and bumble in more than 500 stores, new brands like Aquage, the chain-wide rollout of Drybar and newness driving double -- strong double-digit comps in DevaCurl, Kenra, Matrix and Pureology. So as you can see, there's a lot going on in our assortment as we have access to more and more brands that continue to elevate our product offering.
Now looking ahead to next year, we're excited about the new brand pipeline with additions in every major category, including makeup, skincare and haircare as well as a significant reflow in our mass cosmetics area planned for the beginning of 2018 to make room for brand additions and expansions. Our positioning of All Things Beauty, All in One Place gives us multiple levers to drive growth and quickly adapt to trends and changing industry dynamics.
Let me turn now to our services business. Salon sales grew 10.8% and comped 3.8% in the third quarter. While a moderation from our rapid growth earlier in the year, these increases show that we continue to gain share and far exceed growth rates for the services industry. We saw some regional variation in our growth rates with slower growth in Florida and Texas, 2 of our biggest markets for services, reflecting disruption from the hurricane.
The team managed labor and operating costs well and increased the profit rate of the services business while investing in growth initiatives. We're in the early stages of testing our improved salon business model in 2 markets, and we're encouraged by the early indicators. Initial surveys of our guests revealed significantly higher engagement and satisfaction with this new approach. As a reminder, the new guest-centric model features a simplified menu for hair and skin services, a more transparent pricing model to clearly and consistently communicate pricing to our guests and increase training for stylists. We believe this innovative approach is the foundation for long-term growth and share gains.
Earlier this year, we launched our Pro Team, a group of salon stylists from Redken, Matrix, L'ANZA and Wella who are in charge of elevating the profile of the salon at Ulta Beauty, building trend collection and leading education programs for our 7,000 stylists. The Pro team is already making a big impact and getting a lot of attention in the salon world with extensive coverage in industry publications like Modern Salon and Behind The Chair. This publicity is positioning us as a trendsetter and helping us to track the best talent to our salon team.
Now to update you on our new store program. We opened 48 stores in the third quarter, ending the quarter with 1,058 stores. We were able to open almost all of our 100 net new stores in our 2017 program before Black Friday weekend to take advantage of holiday traffic and sales. New stores continued to open up very strong, with the class of 2017 stores exceeding its budget and IRR hurdles.
Earlier this month, we opened our first Manhattan store in a great neighborhood location in 86th and Third. This store is off to an excellent start in its first few weeks. Similar to the Michigan Avenue store in Chicago, we're seeing great results in the salon after hiring a seasoned team of salon professionals. At the Manhattan store, it offers extended hours to accommodate early morning blowouts in the salon before work or school. We're pleased to report that our newly opened high-profile stores in Chicago, the Mall of America and Manhattan are all performing very well. Looking ahead to 2018, the majority of our 2018 real estate program has been approved, and we're on track to open up another 100 stores next year.
Now turning to our e-commerce business. Ulta.com sales grew 62.9%, representing nearly 9% of total company revenue and continuing the rapid growth we've seen from the past several quarters as we enhanced our assortment, site experience and delivery capabilities. E-commerce sales were driven by transaction growth. Total traffic growth was up 57% and mobile traffic grew 92%, driven by investments in digital marketing. We relaunched our mobile site during the quarter, improving the guest experience with the redesign of the shopping cart and checkout experiences. We also improved the credit card application experience, implementing the ability to apply and buy in one transaction, which has more than doubled the number of credit card account sign-ups online. We also gave the Ulta Beauty app a mini makeover, adding features like the ability to buy and e-mail gift cards from your phone; easier use of features like checking Ultamate Rewards account and point balance; an improved version of our try on app, GLAM LAB, a feature to enable push notifications to get alerts about the latest promotions and exclusive product launches, and the capability for guests to use voice search to find products. Mobile app traffic increased more than 300% during the quarter. We continue to build our ulta.com assortment with the addition of more online-only brands like Lime Crime, one of the first digitally native beauty brands, offering edgy makeup and hair color; Little Barn Apothecary bath products; the Pérsona Identity Palette created by YouTube influencer, Simply Sona, and exclusive to Ulta Beauty; and Milani makeup and primers. Online-only brands accounted for a significant portion of our e-commerce growth during the quarter.
Ulta.com also delivered excellent results with our signature promotions like 21 Days Of Beauty, the Gorgeous Hair event, as well as online-only promotions including platinum perks, beauty sample bags with purchase and limited-time beauty breaks. We launched Shoppable Instagram in August, and we're seeing growing interest and engagement in this platform.
Now turning to the development of our omni-channel capabilities. Last quarter, we've mentioned our store-to-door test in 40 stores which enable guests to place ulta.com orders in-store and have the products delivered to their homes. We rolled out this capability chain-wide at the end of the third quarter. And while this initiative is still fairly small in terms of demand, it's proving quite useful in satisfying guests looking for hot brands that are not available in every store, such as MAC or Morphe. The number of omni-channel shoppers continues to steadily increase. Guests purchasing both in-store and online now represent 9.1% of our loyalty members compared to 7.5% a year ago. And she's spending 2.7x more than a retail-only guest when she shops in both channels, including doubling her spend in our stores.
And finally to update you on our supply chain operations. We continue to develop capabilities and leverage economies of scale in our distribution network to deliver exceptional guest experiences while focusing on cost optimization. Our DC network is forecast to ship nearly 20% more units this year compared to 2016, with almost 10% of units supporting our e-commerce business. Our improved operational capabilities are supporting this growth while capturing significant savings. E-commerce costs per order are down 10% year-over-year with a 4.4% reduction in retail replenishment costs over the same period. From the speed-to-guest perspective, the supply chain team has achieved a 20% reduction in retail replenishment lead times, with most of our e-commerce orders processed within 24 hours of an order being placed. We also -- we've also continued to implement technologies to provide greater control and visibility, supporting ongoing efforts to improve service and reduce costs.
Our DC network has continued to mature with the ramp of our new DC operating model in Greenwood and Dallas. These 2 facilities are expected to process nearly 85% of our e-commerce volume during the peak 2017 holiday season. As we prepare to go live with the Fresno DC next summer, we'll continue to see more e-com demand fulfilled out of our new DC operating model. And speaking of Fresno, construction of our new West Coast distribution center is nearly complete, and hiring of the management team is well underway, and we're on track to open next summer. The Fresno DC will add another 670,000 square feet of capacity that can service up to 400 stores and 45,000 e-commerce orders per day. Fresno will also provide a platform to implement new technologies to increase productivity and significantly reduce transit time for our West Coast customers.
From an inventory perspective, we've been building our DC and store inventory levels to prepare for the significant volume spike that we anticipate during the holiday season. The team has done a great job maintaining high in-stock levels. And while they remain above goal, we've also focused on achieving our inventory turn goals. Inventory per door grew by 6.5%, well below our total sales comp of 10.3% in the third quarter, a solid achievement in light of the additional safety stock we built in support of our fourth quarter sales projections.
I'm also really proud of the partnership among the supply chain teams, store operations and merchandising teams to ensure the seamless execution of our many new brand launches and category reflows.
That completes my progress report on our strategic imperatives. Looking ahead to the rest of the year, we're looking forward to an exciting fourth quarter as our teams work together to inspire our 26 million loyal guests to treat themselves and their friends and families this holiday season. Our merchants have planned a great assortment with lots of newness and exclusives. Our marketing team is executing a compelling 360-degree plan around our Bring the Beauty theme, including new creative for television and radio. Our store teams are ensuring strong execution of the planograms and events, and we're investing in labor hours to give great guest service. And our supply chain and system teams are supporting the stores and ulta.com with improved inventory planning, leading to higher in-stock levels. We are ready.
And with that, I'll turn it over to Scott to discuss in more detail our third quarter financial results and our outlook for the current quarter.