Earnings Labs

Steven Madden, Ltd. (SHOO)

Q3 2024 Earnings Call· Sat, Nov 9, 2024

$37.31

-1.38%

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Transcript

Operator

Operator

Good day, and thank you for standing by. Welcome to the Q3 2024 Steve Madden Limited Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions] After the speakers' presentation there will be a question-and-answer session. [Operator Instructions] Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. I would now like to hand the conference over to your first speaker today, Danielle McCoy, VP of Corporate Development and Investor Relations. Please go ahead.

Danielle McCoy

Analyst

Thanks, Krista, and good morning, everyone. Thank you for joining our third quarter 2024 earnings call and webcast. Before we begin, I'd like to remind you that our remarks that follow, including answers to your questions, contain statements that we believe to be forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act. These forward-looking statements are subject to risks that could cause actual results to materially differ from those expressed or implied by such forward-looking statements. These risks include, among others, matters that we have described in our press release issued earlier today and filings we make with the SEC. We disclaim any obligation to update these forward-looking statements, which may not be updated until our next quarterly earnings conference call, if at all. The financial results discussed on today's call are on an adjusted basis unless otherwise noted. A reconciliation to the most directly comparable GAAP financial measure and other associated disclosures are contained in our earnings release. Joining me on the call today is Ed Rosenfeld, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer; and Zine Mazouzi, Chief Financial Officer. With that, I'll turn the call over to Ed. Ed?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Thanks, Danielle, and good morning, everyone, and thank you for joining us to review Steve Madden's third quarter 2024 earnings results. We delivered strong results in the third quarter with revenue and earnings exceeding expectations. This performance was driven by outstanding growth in the accessories and apparel categories, including another quarter of exceptional performance in Steve Madden handbags and a strong contribution from newly acquired Almost Famous and robust top line gains in international markets and direct-to-consumer channels, demonstrating our team's continued execution of our strategy for long-term growth. Within that strategy, our top priority is to win with product. This fall, we are successfully utilizing our proven model, which combines talented design teams led by Steve, a test and react strategy and an industry-leading speed-to-market capability to create trend-right product assortments across the footwear, accessories and apparel categories that are resonating with consumers. In footwear, we are seeing particular success with tall-shaft boots, soccer-inspired sneakers and Mary Janes. In handbags, our structured mini satchels and cross bodies remain strong, and we are also seeing robust demand for shoulder bags and small accessories and for on-trend materials like quilting and patchwork suede. And in Steve Madden apparel, we are offering our consumers the same of-the-moment on-trend styling that they are accustomed to getting from us in shoes and bags, and we're getting a great response to our interpretation of key trends, including animal print, [indiscernible] leather, suede, satin and denim. We are also supporting this great product with increased full funnel marketing investment. In our flagship Steve Madden brand, we kicked off the fall season with an integrated global marketing campaign called Never Miss A Beat. Featuring the iconic Deee-Lite song, Groove Is in the Heart, the campaign served as a love letter to our hometown of New York City.…

Zine Mazouzi

Analyst

Thanks, Ed, and good morning, everyone. In the third quarter, our consolidated revenue was $624.7 million, a 13% increase compared to the third quarter of 2023. Excluding Almost Famous, consolidated revenue grew 5.5% compared to the same period in the prior year. Our wholesale revenue was $495.7 million, up 14.4% compared to the third quarter of 2023. Excluding Almost Famous, wholesale revenue increased 4.8% compared to the same period in the prior year. Wholesale footwear revenue was $299.3 million, a 2.2% decrease from the comparable period in 2023, with growth in the private label business more than offset by a decline in the branded business. Wholesale accessories and apparel revenue was $196.4 million, up 54.2% to the third quarter in the prior year or 21.6%, excluding Almost Famous, driven by strong growth in our Steve Madden handbag business despite difficult comparisons with the same period last year. In our direct-to-consumer segment, revenue was $125.5 million, a 7.8% increase compared to the third quarter of 2023. As Ed mentioned, performance was stronger in e-commerce than the brick-and-mortar channel. We ended the quarter with 282 company-operated brick-and-mortar retail stores, including 68 outlets, 5 e-commerce websites and 67 company-operated concessions in international markets. Turning to our Licensing segment. Our licensing royalty income was $3.5 million in the quarter compared to $2.9 million in the third quarter of 2023. Consolidated gross margin was 41.6% in the quarter versus 42.1% in the comparable period of 2023 due to the impact of Almost Famous. Excluding Almost Famous, consolidated gross margin increased 50 basis points year-over-year. The freight impact from the supply chain disruption was offset by lower promotional activity. Wholesale gross margin was 35.5% compared to 35.9% in the third quarter of 2023, also due to the impact of Almost Famous. Excluding Almost Famous, wholesale gross…

Operator

Operator

[Operator Instructions] Thank you. At this time we will conduct a question-and-answer session. [Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez of Citi.

Kelly Crago

Analyst

This is Kelly on for Paul. Just first one, if you could just update us on your China sourcing exposure and sort of what your thought is around how you address that going forward in light of the potential tariffs? And then secondly, can you talk a bit more about what played out in the wholesale footwear channel? I believe you were expecting improvement in the core Steve Madden wholesale footwear business in 3Q versus 2Q. So I guess, how did that trend versus, I believe it was down mid-single digits in 2Q. So, just any color there would be great.

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Yes. Great. Thanks, Kelly. So first of all, with respect to your first question around China and potential tariff exposure. Look, we have been planning for a potential scenario in which we would have to move goods out of China more quickly. We've worked hard over a multiyear period to develop our factory base and our sourcing capability in alternative countries like Cambodia, Vietnam, Mexico, Brazil, et cetera. And so as of yesterday morning, we are putting that plan into motion and you should expect to see the percentage of goods that we source from China to begin to come down more rapidly going forward. And just to give you some -- you asked about the China exposure. Just to give you some context to hopefully help you frame the issue here. About 2/3 of our overall business is done in -- with U.S. imports. So, U.S. imports account for about 2/3 of our overall business. And of that, we currently source a little bit more than 70% of those goods from China. So in other words, just under half of our current business would be potentially subject to tariffs on Chinese imports. Our goal over the next year is to reduce that percentage of goods that we source from China by approximately 40% to 45% which means that if we're able to achieve that and we think we have the plan to do it, that a year from today, we would be looking at just over 1/4 of our business that would be subject to potential tariffs on Chinese goods. I think the second part of your question was about our wholesale footwear business. And I think you're referring specifically to probably to the branded business. So again, that was down in Q3. We improved sequentially. So, the decline was a little bit smaller than it was in Q2, but we did not get all the way to flat, which was our goal. And look, the dynamics in that channel, the challenging dynamics have been a little stickier than we had hoped. In Q3, I think we were particularly impacted by the fact that some of our key wholesale customers took in their boot deliveries about a month or so later than they did a year ago. Now when we got those boots delivered, we've had quite a lot of success with our boots. I think we've outperformed the competition there. We've seen some strong sell-through and we are getting reorders, but those reorders are hitting Q3 -- excuse me, Q4 and not Q3. And look, overall, we just continue to see a cautious approach from some of our key wholesale customers. But we're going to keep banging away at it. And the good news is that the products that we are getting delivered are seeing sell-throughs that are outpacing the competition.

Kelly Crago

Analyst

Got it. So on that point, do you expect that wholesale footwear will improve in 4Q versus 3Q?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

I do.

Operator

Operator

[Operator Instructions] Our next question comes from the line of Aubrey Tianello of BNP Paribas.

Aubrey Tianello

Analyst

I wanted to start out with the updated revenue guidance for 2024. I think previously, you're expecting low to mid-single-digit organic growth in wholesale and then high singles in DTC. Curious how you're thinking about growth between the channels in this new guide for higher revenue.

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Yes. Thanks, Aubrey. So, we have updated our guidance or raised our revenue guidance in the wholesale channel. So, we're now looking for that business to be up mid-teens overall or about 6% to 7%, excluding Almost Famous. And that increase is really coming from the continued strength that we're seeing in our wholesale accessories and apparel business, but primarily driven by the continued strength in Steve Madden handbags. For DTC, we continue to be at up high singles for the year, so right in line with where we were when we last spoke.

Aubrey Tianello

Analyst

Okay. Got it. Great. And then yes, just to follow up on that on the handbag business and the really impressive growth we saw this quarter. I think this is the fifth straight quarter now since the handbag business has really inflected and you're lapping a lot harder compares starting this quarter. And I guess just any more color you can share on what's been driving that growth and just how we should think about growth in that business going forward?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Yes. We're just really pleased with how the team has executed. Again, this has been a multiyear growth journey. We've seen acceleration recently, but I think this is the -- we're seeing the fruit of a lot of labor over a number of years to develop a really strong product engine there to build a position with our customer, with our consumer in this category and that's paying off. The team is -- to your point, we're now anniversarying some very tough comparisons and still seeing strong growth. The team has done a great job of updating some of our biggest items to, to extend their life and also introducing new silhouettes that are really catching on and also making sure to consistently each season really beyond any kind of new trends in materials and colorways, et cetera. So, just good product execution and we'll keep focusing on it.

Operator

Operator

[Operator Instructions] Our next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.

Dana Telsey

Analyst

As you think about the wholesale business, Ed, and what you're seeing, how does it differ by type, whether it's department stores, off-pricers or mass merchants, what you're seeing in the private label business? And then when you think of the retail business, what are you seeing in outlets and full-price stores? And then just one follow-up.

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Sure. Look, I think in the wholesale channel, we continue to see that the value-priced retailers are performing more strongly. So, our private label business is outpacing our branded business. And again, our private label business is primarily done with mass merchants. And even within the branded business, we're clearly seeing strength in the off-price channel relative to, say, the department store channel. Although, again, I want to point out our sell-through performance in the department store channel, we feel good about and we think it's outpacing our closest competition. In terms of our own DTC, we've been talking for some time about outlets outperforming full-price stores. That has reversed itself over the last couple of months. And in fact, in recent months, we've seen full-price stores actually outpacing outlets.

Dana Telsey

Analyst

Got it. And then just on the wholesale footwear category, what are you seeing by styles? Any trends, whether it's sneakers, whether it's boots, any new styles or trends that you see driving demand into holiday season and beyond?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

I'm really excited about what we're seeing with our tall shaft boots right now. I think that's a category where, again, I think we really have the right items, whether it's engineer boots, stretch boots, et cetera, anything in suede, particularly brown suedes, we're doing great with. And I think it's a category where we believe that we are outperforming the competition. So that's one thing I'm really excited about. We also introduced some new sneakers this fall, a lot in that sort of soccer-inspired space, and those are performing very well. And we're now updating those by taking them up on platforms and those are also seeing good demand from the consumer. So, we feel good about that. And then on the casual and some of the other categories, casuals, et cetera, we called out Mary Janes as being very good. We've also got some loafers that are performing. So, the team has done a really good job with the product on the footwear side and feel good about how we're positioned there.

Operator

Operator

[Operator Instructions] Our next question comes from the line of Laura Champine of Loop.

Laura Champine

Analyst

And thanks for being so specific about the plans you've got to move production out of China. Obviously, you were there for a reason. What's the likely gross margin impact of that move? Or do you think you can just pass on any change in cost to your customers?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

I think it's really difficult to quantify the potential impact here. And especially, if we are contemplating a new policy where there are significant tariffs on China, that's going to have all sorts of wide-ranging implications, not only in the supply chain, but the overall economy, supply and demand impacts in all these countries where we would be sourcing from. So, I think it's a little too early to speculate about what the impact will be.

Operator

Operator

Our next question comes from the line of Janine Stichter of BTIG.

Janine Stichter

Analyst

Just was hoping you could elaborate a bit on what you saw with the marketing campaign in September. Any learnings there? And then I think you've been making some investments in your stores. Where are we on that? And just any initial reads from those tests?

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Sure. Yes, we were really excited with the marketing campaign and the results that we saw there. I think it was our best campaign in some time and really resonated with the consumer. And again, drove results. We talked about the lift that we saw in folks searching for us, searching for our brand. We saw a big lift across the United States, and we focused a lot of our off-line activations in the New York area and we saw a much more significant lift in New York. So, we saw that those marketing activities really worked. It also, of course, drove revenue. That's critically important. And we got some really great data from some of our wholesale -- excuse me, some of our media partners, YouTube, for example, on the lift that we saw in awareness, consideration, et cetera, from folks that saw the ad. So, it really worked. We felt very good about it. And the nice thing about doing this top-of-funnel marketing is we saw that it also made our performance marketing dollars work harder and we got one and we saw better returns there. So overall, a successful campaign and we'll look to do more of that going forward. In terms of the investments in stores, was that the second part of the question? Is that right? Yes. Those are ongoing. I know we've talked about Times Square on this call before. That one is going to open right before Black Friday. So, we're under construction there right now, and we're super excited to get that flagship store open and we'll continue to refresh the fleet going forward.

Operator

Operator

At this time, I'm showing no further questions. I would now like to turn the call back over to Ed Rosenfeld for closing remarks.

Edward Rosenfeld

Analyst

Great. Well, thanks, everybody, for joining us today. Enjoy the rest of your day. Have a great holiday season and we will speak to you soon.

Operator

Operator

Thank you for your participation in today's conference. This concludes the program. You may now disconnect.