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Transcript
OP
Operator
Operator
Ladies and gentlemen, thank you for standing by. Welcome to the Ralph Lauren First Quarter Fiscal Year 2023 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions]. As a reminder, this conference is being recorded. I'd now like to turn over the conference to our host, Ms. Corinna Van Ghinst. Please go ahead.
CG
Corinna Van Ghinst
Analyst
Good morning, and thank you for joining Ralph Lauren's First Quarter Fiscal 2023 Conference Call. With me today are Patrice Louvet, the company's President and Chief Executive Officer; and Jane Nielsen, Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer. After prepared remarks, we will open up the call for your questions, which we ask that you limit to one per caller. During today's call, we will be making some forward-looking statements within the meaning of the federal securities laws, including our financial outlook. Forward-looking statements are not guarantees, and our actual results may differ materially from those expressed or implied in the forward-looking statements. Our expectations contain many risks and uncertainties, principal risks and uncertainties that could cause our results to differ materially from our current expectations are detailed in our SEC filings. To find disclosures and reconciliations of non-GAAP measures that we use when discussing our financial results, you should refer to this morning's earnings release and to our SEC filings that can be found on our Investor Relations website. And with that, I'll turn the call over to Patrice.
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst
Thank you, Cory. Good morning, everyone, and thank you for joining today's call. Our strong first quarter performance underscores the resilience and momentum of our business around the world. This follows our significant multiyear reset to transform our consumer base, product portfolio and distribution. These results also validate the strong confidence that Ralph and I have in our teams who are consistently executing with incredible dedication and agility through what continues to be uncertain times. We exceeded our expectations again on both the top and bottom line with broad-based strength across all 3 regions despite macro headwinds from COVID and inflationary pressures in the quarter. Our teams are driving increasing desirability for our brands and products enabling high-quality consumer recruitment as well as retention. Our proven ability to drive a strong value proposition for our consumer, which has strengthened over the last 4 years of our strategic plan is an important advantage for Ralph Lauren, especially through times of macro uncertainty. We are obviously highly attentive to the volatility highlighted recently by our retail peers across the price spectrum. And while we are not immune to broader macro headwinds, we remain focused on what we can control. We have many areas of strength that include a powerful, differentiated brand that we continue to invest in, a strong core business that is resilient through challenging cycles, a more flexible expense structure, a diversified global supply chain with proven agility and discipline in our inventory management and a robust balance sheet, which enables us to make the right decisions for the long-term health of our business. And while we continue to adapt to shifting macro developments, this strong foundation gives us confidence as we drive our business across multiple engines of long-term growth. These include: first, continuing to drive brand heat and…
JN
Jane Nielsen
Analyst
Thank you, Patrice, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results demonstrate the broad-based strength of our strategic plan, the durability of our business model and the execution excellence of our teams in the face of challenges and disruptions around the world. Our pivot to offense showed in our top line growth with Q1 revenues up 8% on a reported basis and 13% in constant currency, above pre-pandemic levels and more than 500 basis points above our outlook. This was supported by positive growth across all 3 regions, despite lapping our final quarter of major distribution resets and COVID-related shutdowns in China. Operating profit dollars also grew versus pre-pandemic levels with continued operating expense discipline helping to mitigate transitory cost pressures. And we achieved all of this while continuing to drive important investments in marketing, digital, new stores and people. We believe our elevated brand, focused strategy and targeted investments when combined with our culture of operating discipline and fortress balance sheet gives us a position of strength to continue to drive long-term value creation through uncertain times. Let me take you through our first quarter financial highlights. Total company revenues, up 13% in constant currency, significantly outperformed our outlook. Results included roughly 4 points of negative impact from our divestiture of Club Monaco and licensing of our North American Chaps brand last year, implying even stronger underlying growth. Ralph Lauren digital ecosystem sales grew mid-single digits in constant currency on top of more than 80% growth last year. Our owned Ralph Lauren digital sites grew high single digits on top of last year's 49% compare, reflecting our compelling product assortments, new consumer acquisition and user-friendly connected retail capabilities. Digital margins remain strongly accretive to our profitability in the quarter. Total company adjusted gross margin was 68%, down 180 basis…
OP
Operator
Operator
[Operator Instructions]. The first question comes from Jay Sole with UBS Securities.
JS
Jay Sole
Analyst
Great. My question is the global operating environment appears to be getting more challenging from inflation and weak consumer sentiment, just to a more intense promotional stance of some of your peers. So what gives you confidence that you are better positioned versus your peers to continue driving offense and deliver growth in this kind of environment and particularly in Europe?
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst
Well, thank you for your question. Yes, it has been a more challenging operating environment. And as you heard us talk about in the prepared remarks, we do expect more choppiness ahead given the various macro signals. But we still have strong confidence in our game plan and our ability to navigate and execute successfully through this choppiness. As you know well, we've been repositioning this company for the past 4 years to establish a very strong, broad foundation with multiple engines of growth ahead. And I will highlight 4 clear sustainable advantages. The first one is an iconic lifestyle brand. With consumer metrics like desirability that are improving in every market, as you know, we track our brand perception in our top 7 markets monthly and we continue to see strengthening across the board. And we have millions of consumers joining our brand every year. This past quarter, we had 1.3 million consumers join us on top of over 5 million last year. The second element is the unique breadth of our product offering. We're really the only brand that can credibly offer categories from sneakers to tuxedos, which means we have the ability to dial up and dial down specific elements based on consumer demand and desire. The third is a clear and regionally balanced go-to-market strategy so that even if one region is adversely affected, we're diversified across market and can offset in other parts of the world. And I think we've also proven our ability to rebound quickly as recently demonstrated again in China where you saw that we were able to deliver strong performance given half of our stores were closed for the majority of the quarter. And the fourth area I would call out is a diversified and agile supply chain. There's been work that's been going on for the 5-plus years to really establish that. And that has proven to be both a huge asset and a major competitive advantage for us as we navigate this [indiscernible] world. And supporting all of this work, we have an organization that is engaged, that has fully embraced operational discipline, as you've seen with our continued margin expansion versus pre-pandemic levels. So net-net, I would say we're staying in touch, of course, with what's happening. And while we're not immune to macro pressures, we are staying focused on the medium and long-term direction for the company. If I had to sum up where our current position is in 3 words, I would say offense, agility and pragmatic. Offense, to maintain and fuel our momentum. Agility, as we face a continually volatile operating environment and pragmatic and choiceful about where we use our resources to ensure we continue to build our brand and our market position for the long term.
CG
Corinna Van Ghinst
Analyst
Thank you. Next question, please.
OP
Operator
Operator
The next question comes from Michael Binetti with Credit Suisse.
MB
Michael Binetti
Analyst · Credit Suisse.
I guess one at higher level and then maybe one on the near-term. [indiscernible] Around guidance for the year, the top line and the bottom line despite the currency movements here. Maybe just some of the puts and takes around how you were able to hold the guidance on the top and the bottom. And then I just want to circle up on -- Jane, it looks like you're bracing for a little bit tougher trend potentially in the North America outlets. Can you speak to what August looks like in direct-to-consumer or anything that's fueling your concerns? Are you seeing that slow down now? Or is it something you're just anticipating?
JN
Jane Nielsen
Analyst · Credit Suisse.
Sure. Thanks, Michael. We were pleased with the performance this quarter, and it really helped us to maintain our full year constant currency guidance in the context of a lot of macro choppiness out there. And as you would expect, we're actively scenario planning around the consumer. And I'll get to your value consumer at the end. But I did want to just walk you through some of the puts and takes on the guide for fiscal '23. First, on the top line, really, our positive performance trends in international gave us some flexibility on the full year as both Europe and Asia came in stronger than we initially expected back in May. China was largely locked down, as Patrice mentioned, in Q1, but was offset by the strength in other countries, Korea, Japan and Australia, all performed extremely strongly through the quarter. So we were very pleased with that. And Europe also trended well despite the known political and consumer macro headwinds there. So we're pleased with Europe through the quarter and have been cautious entering the year. And while we see North America on a nice, healthy mid-single-digit growth trajectory, we are adding some additional caution around the value-oriented consumer. This really speaks to the inflationary headwinds and weaker consumer sentiment that's out there. We're not naive about what's happening to that consumer from a macro standpoint and wanted to make sure that we were building that in overall. And I say that for the guidance, this all speaks to our diversified engines of growth and gives us confidence in continuing our strategy despite a more uncertain environment. And our margins, clearly, we're managing through cost inflation that we've communicated over the last several quarters. But there are some signs of relief on the horizon. I don't think they'll impact fiscal '23. But given we've got proven pricing strategies, we've reengineered many aspects of our cost structure, and we are laser focused on ROI. We feel pretty balanced on our margin guidance at this point. So in terms of the second part of your question around the value-oriented consumer, we think that we're watching the macro developments carefully. And Q1 was solid. As you saw, we had positive comps in factory. But we saw outperformance in our full-price stores as that consumer remained healthy and robust. And so with that disparity -- which has been happening over the past 5 quarters. So this is not anything new. But given that disparity, we thought it was prudent, given what's happening with that consumer externally to take a more cautious approach in the back half, notably on that consumer. So we feel good about where we're at. We feel about good maintaining our full year guidance. And I do think we've derisked the back half of it with that -- with some caution around that value consumer.
OP
Operator
Operator
The next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
MB
Matthew Boss
Analyst · JPMorgan.
So Patrice, on the multiyear foundational initiatives that you walked through and that you've put in place, when do you believe you saw the inflection in the organization that for this year supports your reiterated 8% constant currency top line forecast, and that's despite the dynamic macro backdrop? But then also, how do you see these initiatives as accretive multiyear if we're thinking about your sustainable top line plan, which I think in the past was cemented in the low to mid-single digits?
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst · JPMorgan.
Thanks for your question. Listen, I think let's take it by region on the first part of your question. Certainly, our business has been on a very strong trajectory in APAC for years, right? And that's really where a lot of the concepts that we've expanded across other regions have originated. The work on ecosystem, the work on brand elevation, the work on AUR growth. We then took that to Europe, I would say, 18 to 24 months ago, and we've seen the benefit of that play out. And you saw another very strong performance this past quarter in Europe in what, as Jane described, was a pretty volatile environment. And then as far as North America is concerned, we had a lot of resetting to do to get the business on healthy foundations both from a consumer targeting standpoint, bringing in a younger, more elevated consumer, from a product standpoint, focusing disproportionately on more elevated proposition. From a go-to-market standpoint, resetting our wholesale distribution, completely transforming our digital operations. Most of that is now in place, Matt. So I think as we started this fiscal year, we're lapping a couple of elements, Chaps, licensing, Club Monaco, sale. But all in all, I think the entire organization is now in execution mode relative to the strategy that we're applying across all of the regions. We do expect, as I mentioned in response to question, these building blocks to be sustained for many years, right? If you think about the elements that we have, we have a brand that just keeps getting stronger and stronger every quarter that goes by. And this isn't just me saying it. This is the consumer telling us that in the tracking that we do on a monthly basis. It's getting stronger on awareness, getting stronger…
JN
Jane Nielsen
Analyst · JPMorgan.
Yes. I think there are a few pivotal moments that we've seen as we really started to develop multiple engines of growth through the post-pandemic period. One was, as China came back after -- and we had pivoted to extensive digital growth, we continued digital growth and saw a big acceleration in comps. So that was, I think, a pivotal moment for us in APAC. In Europe, as we went into the pandemic, you saw very strong e-commerce growth that was based on new consumer acquisition at higher operating margins. I think that was a pivotal moment in Europe. And then in North America, starting in Q4 of '21, our sellout went positive in wholesale has maintained positive along with share gains and pricing increases. And at the same time, we started to really move having reset our business in RLE and you saw nice growth and big margin movements in RLE in North America. I think that Q4 '21 was also a pivotal moment, and those all give us confidence in the pivot to strong positive growth that we're guiding to this year.
OP
Operator
Operator
The next question comes from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
DT
Dana Telsey
Analyst · Telsey Advisory Group.
Nice to see the progress. Jane, you just mentioned what I was thinking about is wholesale and the pickup in strength in wholesale that you've been seeing across the board. How do you think about that as different drivers in each region? Is there different reasons for each? Is it the refurbishment of the in-store shops in terms of what you've been seeing? And then to pick up on that, on your 30 key cities retail store network, where are you in that redevelopment?
JN
Jane Nielsen
Analyst · Telsey Advisory Group.
Sure. Well, Dana, it is a story that's different across the different regions. In North America wholesale, you'll recall, this has been a long-term strategy. So I think the first stage was really getting out of about 2/3 of our doors and really elevating to the higher end of the doors with our wholesale partners. That was step one. Step two was working with our partners even in the -- more than a year in advance of the pandemic to say we are going to take pricing. We're going to take pricing in partnership with you. We started to do that in FY '21, have improved it in our own stores. And that's been a real pivotal moment. Our inventories were clean. We prepared for it. We had the momentum in the market in our own stores, and we've pivoted to what you're seeing this quarter, which is double-digit growth on a mid-teens sellout so very positive dynamics that really had the groundwork laid many years ago. And now it's pivotal. The partnership with our wholesale partners has never been stronger. We've moved into this strategy together. We were prepared for it. And so we're moving in partnership. And of course, we're reinvesting in those wholesale doors, not just in North America but also in Europe. And I think the strength in Europe has come from -- we were already in very elevated partners. And there's a very strong pure-play component where we have great representation and are gaining share in Europe. So strong partnerships in Europe that we did -- we've been doing the strong elevation journey, and they've been following in that elevation journey, with great momentum from our digital pure play partners and the pure play digital components of our more traditional partners. So very strong and very pleased with our wholesale around the world. Wholesale is are a very small portion of the Asia Pac business. It's much more concessional. And our journey on the key cities is really about creating the right ecosystem, which includes every touchpoint. You saw that in our guidance this year, we expect to open 200 new doors around the world, largely in Asia, but also in Europe and North America. Those are important pieces of the ecosystem. You've seen us open emblematic doors. The door in , the Chengdu door that Patrice talked about. They are centers for the ecosystem. And the work we're doing on wholesale and as we roll out local sites are really an important part of that third -- top 30 key city ecosystems. So we have a proven model. We're continuing to roll it out. It goes across every touch point of the consumer, and we're pleased with our progress. And I think you'll see as we close out this year, we'll have a -- we'll have another year of good progress there.
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst · Telsey Advisory Group.
And Dana, I would add to Jane's perspective on the top 30 cities. What's interesting, particularly when you look at the luxury landscape right now and I was in the conversation earlier this morning on this topic where you see a number of luxury players pivot from China to the U.S. in terms of investments. For us, as we look at our top 30 cities, they're pretty balanced across the 3 key regions that we operate in. And the U.S. still represents significant white space opportunity for us. So we're going to double down on that opportunity but continue to invest in APAC, continue to invest in Europe. We recently opened a couple of stores in the Berlin area, which is a key iconic cultural city for our brand. So I think you can expect that to be pretty -- it continue to be a broad-based effort across all 3 key regions for us.
OP
Operator
Operator
The next question comes from Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
OS
Omar Saad
Analyst · Evercore ISI.
Congrats on your continued success. I wanted to do a quick clarification, Jane. Did you say the spread between full price and outlets was widening? Or that was just maintaining the same level? And then I wanted to ask for a little bit more detailed response around China. It seems like you guys are putting up really strong numbers there at a time when others are struggling, given the lockdowns. Is it fair to say that the brand is at an inflection point in China? And if so, why now?
JN
Jane Nielsen
Analyst · Evercore ISI.
Sure. So what we said about -- we said for the last 5 quarters, we've seen a disparity between our full price comps in our outlet comps. And so as we look ahead, we are, I think, mindful of what could be coming for the value consumer based on the macros and wanted to embed some caution in our forward guidance for the balance of the year.
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst · Evercore ISI.
And when it comes to -- Is there anything else you want to add? No? When it comes to China, yes, we are very pleased with the work that our teams are doing in that market and the performance we are delivering. I don't know, Omar, that I would talk about an inflection point. We are seeing a general pace of growth that is quite healthy and strong, right? Digital was up 40% this past quarter in China, despite all the delivery challenges because of the lockdowns. I think if you boil it down to the 3 key drivers for us, the team is doing a very nice job on the brand front, balancing global storytelling like our recent publisher's initiative, along with working with local influencers and local content and messaging. And I think that's really weaving the brand into the local culture in a way that is bringing in more consumers, younger consumers, more elevated consumers. On the product front, I think the gang is doing a great job curating our global lineup to really make sure that we're delivering along the more elevated expectations of that customer. And we're seeing a really nice balance between our men's and women's business. It's actually the more balanced split that we have across the world. And actually, the Chinese market is a great source of inspiration for us as we continue to elevate our product. And then we touched on it a couple of times earlier in this call, but the power of the ecosystem, right? And I actually think there's a virtual cycle there, as we build capabilities on the digital front as we establish iconic store presence that just consistently builds on itself and get stronger and stronger as time goes by. So listen, we're not out of touch with the realities of lockdowns and things like that. But we feel like the brand is really nicely positioned in China at this point. It's something we're going to continue to invest in. And the key for us is to really stay in touch with that local consumer.
CG
Corinna Van Ghinst
Analyst · Evercore ISI.
Last question, please, Angela?
OP
Operator
Operator
Our final question comes from Chris Nardone with Bank of America.
CN
Christopher Nardone
Analyst
So you talked about your ability to pivot categories depending on the demand environment. Can you just talk little bit more about which categories have shown the strongest demand in the most recent months and then maybe some categories that are either dragging or may have a little bit too much inventory?
PL
Patrice Louvet
Analyst
Sure, Chris. So it's actually really interesting to see what's happening with the consumer right now. And we're actually really uniquely positioned to capture the consumers evolving wardrobe choice. Because what we're seeing is a combination of reinvesting in core wardrobes. So specifically, that's products like sweaters or denim and then a pivot towards newness and elevation and sophistication, right? So the pivot towards newness for us will translate into more elevated cashmere sweaters, for example, or a novelty and matching . And then you have consumers not going out during the day, right? And it's still early days on that journey, and therefore, a need for greater outerwear and need for greater dresses and need for greater sports coats. And then we're also seeing more evening activities more going out. So obviously, that's supporting and impacting our overall evening where more dressier parts of the portfolio. So general direction of travel is elevation for your sophistication. Chris, when I look at categories, there are no categories where we feel we are heavy, if I could use that terminology. I think the team has done a nice job managing inventory across all of these, and that's the result of shorter lead times, greater agility, greater diversification in our supply chain. But very clearly, we are seeing the consumer pivot towards more sophisticated, more elevated products versus what we saw during COVID, that was much more athleisure reliant. All right. Thank you for that question, Chris. Well, thank you for joining us today, and we look forward to sharing our updated strategic plan with all of you mid-September, September 19. Until then, stay safe, and have a great day.
OP
Operator
Operator
Ladies and gentlemen, that does conclude your conference for today. Thank you for your participation. You may now disconnect.