Joseph Alkire
Analyst · Wells Fargo
Thanks, Scott, and thank you all for joining us. Disciplined capital stewardship is a hallmark of our operating model and deeply embedded in the Kontoor way. The optimization of our portfolio by pursuing the divestiture of Lee will allow for greater focus on our largest growth assets that we expect to drive the most value for Kontoor and our shareholders in the years to come. This is a defining moment for Kontoor, and our ongoing transformational actions will result in several important changes within our business moving forward. First, our streamlined brand portfolio architecture will result in sharper focus on Wrangler and Helly Hansen, 2 iconic brands with significant global growth opportunities. The divestiture of Lee will reduce operational complexity, enable more concentrated and choiceful investments, faster execution and improved returns on our largest strategic initiatives. Within Wrangler, we expect to accelerate investments in our female business, including areas such as product development, design and demand creation. The women's denim market, as measured by Circana, is larger than men's, and Wrangler's female business comprises just 10% of revenue today. So the runway for growth is significant. Further, we will continue to scale our non-denim categories, including tops and bottoms through investments in product and supply chain capabilities. And we expect to invest and supercharge our digital business through improved capabilities in AI, site experience and an expanded loyalty program. We will also accelerate the pace of growth in our U.S. full-price store footprint as we establish a true omnichannel brand experience for consumers. Wrangler's full-price store in Fort Worth, Texas is a great example and has delivered strong growth and returns since its opening several years ago. We are excited to open additional doors in Texas as we deepen our presence in the heartland of Western Lifestyle and see further expansion opportunities in the Western and Southern United States. These doors further solidify Wrangler's authenticity and will create a unique brand experience that differentiates Wrangler in the marketplace. Turning to Helly Hansen. Helly is a growth asset and is already a significant contributor to our revenue and profit growth engine. The streamlining of our portfolio will free up enterprise-level resources and investment capacity to further advance our strategic initiatives and position the brand for accelerated growth in 2027 and beyond. Within sport, we intend to accelerate investments in geographic, category and channel expansion. Under the highly capable Helly leadership team, we are bolstering the organization with more meaningful investments in the commercial and product teams. And we are scaling investments in digital and brick-and-mortar retail as well as increased demand creation to drive brand awareness globally. To fuel accelerated expansion in technical outdoor apparel and footwear, we are making investments in product development, design and innovation. Technical outdoor apparel and footwear is the largest category within the broader outdoor market and brings better balance to the revenue and profit seasonality of the Helly business. Further, we are supporting geographic expansion, including specific investments targeting the U.S. and ALPS region in Europe. Within Workwear, we are accelerating geographic expansion. In the U.S., we are bringing increased focus through dedicated resources across the organization and in areas such as demand creation. The demand for premium workwear is increasing around the world, driven by a combination of structural factors we believe support years of profitable growth. From a profitability perspective, we remain committed to improving Helly's operating margin from the high-single digits today to mid-teens through a combination of gross margin expansion, operating expense leverage and synergies. We are leveraging our global operating model, supply chain and technology platforms, planning capabilities as well as Project Genius. The early benefits of these improvements can be seen in better-than-expected profitability and earnings accretion in 2025 and the first quarter of 2026, where operating margin has nearly doubled as compared to a year ago. Second, the planned divestiture of Lee strengthens our long-term TSR algorithm, resulting in higher growth, profitability and returns on capital and favorably shifts our portfolio towards higher growth categories, geographies and channels of distribution. Wrangler and Helly Hansen are strongly positioned within the combined $400 billion outdoor, workwear and denim markets globally. These large addressable markets have structural tailwinds that afford attractive long-term growth opportunities. Helly continues to elevate its place as a leading technical performance brand in the outdoor category with high consumer loyalty. Within Workwear, Wrangler and Helly Hansen are complementary and span the entire price spectrum from value to premium with limited overlap. And within the global denim market, Wrangler's function-based value positioning and year-round replenishment model is supported by longer product life cycles that build product and margin efficiencies. Underpinning our strategic investments for both brands is a clear focus on the consumer. We are utilizing more robust consumer insights capabilities to better inform future growth opportunities, including category adjacencies, consumer segments and distribution decisions. In addition to improved category mix, the planned divestiture enhances the quality of our distribution footprint and favorably shifts our portfolio towards the higher-growth DTC channel where we have the deepest connection with our consumers and are in the early innings of unlocking new data and analytics capabilities. Our profitability algorithm is also expected to improve. Going forward, we expect to drive further operating margin expansion as we scale Helly Hansen's profitability, while Wrangler's highly efficient operating model supports strong cash generation and returns on invested capital. As a result, we expect an improvement in our TSR algorithm driven by stronger revenue and earnings growth and durable cash generation. And third, the planned divestiture significantly increases our capital allocation optionality. Expected proceeds from the planned divestiture later this year will enhance our balance sheet flexibility and create greater optionality, including accelerated share repurchases, deleverage and reinvestment in the business. We anticipate the primary use of proceeds from the divestiture of Lee will be used for accelerated share repurchases under our new $750 million authorization. A portion of the anticipated proceeds are also expected to be used to solidify our balance sheet and reduce net interest expense as we remain committed to exiting 2026 with net leverage at or below 1.5x. Moving on to where we are in the Lee divestiture process. During the first quarter, we initiated a competitive process to divest the Lee business. The process has attracted strong interest from multiple parties, and the company anticipates entering into an agreement to divest the Lee business later this year. As a result, we now report the results of the Lee business as discontinued operations. Consequently, our near-term P&L on a continuing operations basis will be temporarily impacted by approximately $40 million of full year unmitigated expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business. We expect the divestiture of Lee to be immaterial to earnings per share over a 12- to 18-month period. The earnings contribution of the Lee business will be offset through strong capital deployment and mitigation of overhead and other expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business through restructuring and other mitigating cost actions. Now let's review our first quarter results, starting with Wrangler. Global revenue increased 2%, driven by 9% growth in DTC and 2% growth in wholesale. In the U.S., revenue increased 1%, driven by 6% growth in DTC and 1% growth in wholesale. Growth was broad-based, driven by strength in denim, female and Western. POS increased at a low single-digit rate in the first quarter, consistent with trends over the past 12 to 24 months. And as measured by Circana, Wrangler gained over 100 basis points of market share in our men's and women's bottoms business. Wrangler International revenue increased 9%, driven by 24% growth in DTC and 7% growth in wholesale. We believe the brand is well positioned to drive another year of broad-based growth in 2026. Turning to Helly Hansen. Global revenue of $176 million increased 16% compared to prior year on a pro forma basis. Within Sport, growth was balanced across all channels in North America and Europe. Sell-through is strong, retail inventory levels are clean, and order books are healthy. Within Workwear, strong momentum has carried into the year, led by growth in the Nordics and Southern and Eastern Europe. Moving to China. As a reminder, Helly Hansen's revenue results exclude the direct contribution of the China joint venture with our partner, Youngor, as the results are not consolidated under the equity method of accounting. First quarter results were strong with revenue increasing by approximately 100%, along with further improvement in profitability. Including the China JV, Helly Hansen global revenue increased by more than 20% on a pro forma basis. While still early, the acquisition of Helly is off to a great start. We're driving significant benefits as a more synergistic brand owner and expect the business to be a significant contributor to revenue and earnings growth in the years ahead, which we will review in more detail at the Investor Day in Norway in September. Moving to the remainder of the P&L. Adjusted gross margin expanded 470 basis points to 50.6%, driven by the benefits of Project Genius, the contribution from Helly Hansen and channel mix. This was partially offset by increased product costs, net of pricing actions. Helly Hansen was accretive to adjusted gross margin by approximately 200 basis points. Adjusted SG&A was $224 million. Adjusted SG&A increased 60% compared to prior year, driven by the impact of Helly Hansen as well as increased investments in demand creation, DSC and volume-based variable expenses. These increases were partially offset by the benefits of Project Genius. Adjusted SG&A includes the impact of unmitigated expenses previously allocated to the Lee business that have now been reported in discontinued operations. And adjusted EPS was $1.06, increasing 67% compared to prior year. Helly Hansen contributed $0.26 per share. Adjusted EPS includes an $0.11 impact from unmitigated expenses previously allocated to the Lee business that has now been reported in discontinued operations. Including the contribution from discontinued operations, adjusted EPS was $1.55. Turning to the balance sheet. Inventory at the end of the first quarter was $464 million, including the contribution from Helly Hansen. We are pleased with the quality and composition of our inventory. We finished the quarter with net debt of $1.1 billion and $56 million of cash on hand. Our $500 million revolver remains undrawn. We've made voluntary term loan payments of $250 million since the closing of the Helly Hansen transaction. We intend to use a portion of the expected proceeds from the sale of Lee to further strengthen and fortify our balance sheet. Earlier today, we announced our Board of Directors approved a $750 million share repurchase authorization, which replaces our prior program. The new program reflects the confidence we have in our business and the opportunities to generate significant value from our optimized brand portfolio. During the quarter, we repurchased $25 million of shares under our prior authorization with additional capacity for future share repurchases given the strong cash generation of the business. In addition, we intend to use the majority of the expected proceeds from the planned divestiture of Lee to accelerate share repurchases. And as previously announced, our Board declared a regular quarterly cash dividend of $0.53 per share. Moving on to tariffs. Following the U.S. Supreme Court's decision that the Emergency Economic Powers Act does not authorize tariffs, the U.S. Court of International Trade has ordered U.S. Customs and Border Protection to refund IEPA duties. We believe it is probable that we will recover the IEPA tariffs previously paid and therefore, have recognized a net receivable of $54 million as of March 2026. As a result, during the first quarter of 2026, we reduced cost of goods sold by approximately $49 million on a GAAP basis, representing the expense for IEPA tariffs on inventory previously sold. Of the $49 million reduction in cost of goods sold, $29 million was related to tariffs expensed in 2025. On an adjusted basis, we have excluded the impact of IEPA tariffs expensed in 2025 on first quarter results and in the updated 2026 outlook. Our outlook assumes a 15% reciprocal tariff rate on applicable inventory receipts for the remainder of 2026. For applicable inventory receipts effective February 24, 2026, a 10% reciprocal tariff rate applied and remains in effect. Applicable inventory owned prior to February 24 is exempt from reciprocal tariffs. This updated outlook includes the impact from increases in tariffs on all countries from which we source product with the exception of Mexico. Based on currently available information, our imports from Mexico to the U.S. remain exempt under USMCA. We are currently evaluating the proposed trade agreement with Bangladesh. We utilize U.S. grown cotton in more than 80% of our products sourced from Bangladesh, which may qualify for a duty-free exemption under the trade agreement. Now let's review our updated outlook. Full year revenue, including discontinued operations, is now expected to be in the range of $3.41 billion to $3.46 billion. This compares to our prior outlook range of $3.40 billion to $3.45 billion. Lee revenue is expected to approximate $750 million and is now reported in discontinued operations. Revenue from continuing operations is now expected to be in the range of $2.66 billion to $2.71 billion, which has strengthened as compared to the assumptions embedded in our prior outlook. We expect solid growth from both the Wrangler and Helly Hansen brands for the full year. For the first half of 2026, we expect revenue from continuing operations to be in the range of $1.19 billion to $1.20 billion, reflecting approximately 3% growth for Wrangler and high-single-digit growth for Helly Hansen on a pro forma basis. Lee revenue is expected to approximate $370 million and is now reported in discontinued operations. On a comparative basis, combined revenue of $1.56 billion to $1.57 billion is consistent with our prior outlook. Full year adjusted gross margin from continuing operations is expected to be in the range of 48.3% to 48.5%, representing an increase of 180 to 200 basis points compared to prior year. Our gross margin outlook reflects the benefit of Project Genius, favorable channel and product mix and the contribution from Helly Hansen, partially offset by the increase in product costs and tariffs, net of pricing and other mitigating actions. For the first half of 2026, we expect adjusted gross margin from continuing operations to be in the range of 50.3% to 50.5% representing an increase of 400 to 420 basis points compared to prior year. Full year adjusted SG&A from continuing operations is expected to increase approximately 18%, reflecting the annualization of Helly Hansen as well as increased investments in demand creation and other strategic growth initiatives, partially offset by Project Genius and the impact of the 53rd week in the prior year. Adjusted SG&A expense includes the impact of $35 million of unmitigated expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations. Adjusted operating income from continuing operations is expected to be in the range of $411 million to $418 million, including approximately $40 million of unmitigated expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations. Lee operating income is expected to be approximately $65 million, excluding the impact of expenses that have been reclassified. On a comparative basis, operating income, including the expected contribution from the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations is expected to be in the range of $516 million to $523 million compared to our prior outlook range of $506 million to $512 million. Full year adjusted EPS from continuing operations is expected to be in the range of $5.70 to $5.80 before the impact of $0.55 of unmitigated expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations. Including this impact, adjusted EPS from continuing operations is expected to be in the range of $5.15 to $5.25. The expected EPS contribution from the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations is approximately $0.90 or approximately $1.45, including the impact of the expenses previously allocated to the Lee business that have now been reclassified to continuing operations. We expect the divestiture of Lee to be immaterial to earnings per share over a 12- to 18-month period as the earnings contribution of the Lee business will be offset through strong capital deployment and mitigation of overhead and other expenses that have previously been allocated to the Lee business through restructuring and other mitigating cost actions. We expect the actions we are taking to offset the earnings impact of the planned Lee divestiture, coupled with stronger growth and profitability from Wrangler and Helly Hansen to result in higher earnings and earnings growth moving forward into 2027 and beyond. For the first half of 2026, adjusted EPS, including the expected contribution from discontinued operations, is expected to be in the range of $2.77 to $2.82. This compares to our prior first half outlook range of $2.25 to $2.30. For the full year, we anticipate an effective tax rate of approximately 20%, reflecting synergy benefits as we integrate Helly Hansen into our global tax platform. For the first half of 2026, our effective tax rate is expected to approximate 25%. Finally, we continue to expect another year of strong cash generation. Cash from operations is now expected to approximate $450 million, including the expected contribution from the Lee business now reported in discontinued operations. We'll leverage and expand our supply chain and AR financing programs to include Helly Hansen in 2026. These programs and capabilities will be a significant unlock for the business while supporting accelerated cash generation and deleverage. Our outlook assumes voluntary term loan payments of $225 million, excluding potential additional voluntary debt repayments with a portion of the expected proceeds from the planned divestiture of Lee. We're tracking ahead of our original deleverage plan and anticipate returning to less than 1.5x net leverage by the end of 2026. We expect total acquisition-related debt repayments of $475 million or approximately 70% of the total debt incurred at the close of the Helly Hansen transaction in just 18 months. Before opening it up for questions, a few closing comments. The anticipated divestiture of Lee is a reflection of our disciplined approach to capital allocation and portfolio management and reinforces our commitment to maximize long-term value for shareholders. Our heightened focus on Wrangler and Helly Hansen will allow for increased investment in our 2 largest high-performing, strategically aligned brands that offer the greatest returns. The transaction also favorably shifts our portfolio toward higher-growth categories, geographies and channels with large addressable markets with attractive growth characteristics. Further, our streamlined portfolio offers sharper brand positioning built on complementary function and activity-based brands with significant global growth opportunities. And importantly, the divestiture will result in an improved TSR algorithm driven by accelerated revenue and earnings growth and strong cash generation that supports increased capital allocation optionality while further strengthening our balance sheet. When coupled with an increased emphasis on a more growth-oriented performance-based culture, I am confident we are on a path to fully unlock the potential of Kontoor Brands and create significant value for our shareholders in the years to come. This concludes our prepared remarks. I will now turn the call back to the operator.