Morris Goldfarb
Analyst · Piper Jaffray
Good morning and thank you for joining us to discuss our third quarter results. With me today are Sammy Aaron, our Vice Chairman; Wayne Miller, our Chief Operating Officer; and Neal Nackman, our Chief Financial Officer. At third quarter, our peak seasonal period was strong despite the challenges created by Hurricane Sandy, which coincided exactly with our largest shipping week of the year. Our inability to ship during the storm period negatively impacted our sales for the quarter.
Our sales were a little less than planned; our margins were stronger than planned. The increase in margins resulted in earnings being ahead of our previous estimates.
The lost operating days due to Hurricane Sandy resulted in an absolute halt to our shipping. Despite all this, we had strong results. We're on plan to exceed the full year's EPS guidance we provided to you in September. I'd like to step back a moment and give you the financial highlights for the quarter.
Sales in the third quarter were $544 million, up 7%, compared to the year-ago level. We think we would have done better than this had it not been for the missed shipping at the end of the quarter. Gross margin in the third quarter was 35%, up 320 basis points compared to the prior year. We saw a better initial gross margin than last year, both because of an improved mix of product and better sourcing.
Net income in the third quarter was $2.37 per diluted share, up 10% compared to last year's $2.16. We would have beat last year's strong number by a larger amount had it not been for the softer revenues due to the hurricane. Please keep in mind this quarter's EPS also included $0.06 of expense associated with our acquisition of Vilebrequin. Our balance sheet is in very good shape, which continues to provide a full range of strategic options for the business.
In outerwear, while the next 3 weeks of selling are important, the season is progressing well. Generally, we're seeing modest increases in outerwear sales with lower stock levels. Calvin is the strongest-performing outerwear brand in the market again this year. I'd also like to mention that the team sports business continues to do well, with solid results in both Big Box and Specialty Theme shops. Our strong increases in sales in our team sports business were achieved despite an NHL strike which has adversely impacted our shipping. The fan base for the NFL seems to be stronger than any point in its past. NFL is the biggest part of our Team Sports business and is having a great year.
We're pleased with our business across a number of categories. I'd like to talk a little bit about each. Let's start with our Calvin Klein business first. I'd like to note that, while these are obviously licenses for us, this has become, for PVH and our company, a strong strategic relationship. We expect it to be in place for a very long time to come, and I will note that the average tenure of our licenses of 8 years reflects this commitment.
Calvin Klein outerwear, both men's and women's, is a dominant resource for many retailers today and is outperforming every other brand in the market. We controlled our inventory well and are driving good sales gains. Dresses continue to be a cornerstone of our business and our diversification strategy. Calvin Klein dresses, which is our biggest business in the category, is an anchor brand for the dress departments of our major customers.
We had a very good fall selling season, which is continuing into holiday. We're seeing a strong order book for our major customers for the first quarter of next year. Calvin Klein Women's Suits and Suit Separates continues to be one of our fastest-growing businesses. We're devoting additional resources to grow this business aggressively next year and believe it will continue to be a major business for us. We are clearly one of the few standouts in the women's suits department. I attribute our success here to a really strong team in design, merchandising and planning. We're looking forward to building on our momentum in the category for spring.
Our Calvin Klein Women's Sportswear also continues to deliver good results again this quarter. We're experiencing good sell-throughs and are seeing increased bookings for spring. New leadership in Sportswear has made a big difference. Calvin Klein Performance is progressing quickly. We're proud to be a leader paving the way for this casual branded assortment in department stores. We've fixtured over 250 doors thus far to reinforce the brand. We expect to continue to capture this opportunity. All of our major customers are planning high growth potential for next year.
We're expanding the distribution and penetration of Calvin Klein handbags. We're building shops in department stores, and will continue to add additional shops well into next year. We're now seeing sales gains in department stores that are ahead of plan and far exceeding the department. Our door count continues to expand, and we now expect to be in approximately 1,000 doors for spring, up from 800 doors this fall.
As you know, Calvin Klein is approximately half of our wholesale volume. I'd like to take you now through the balance, which is comprised of some other very strong brands. Our Outercoat businesses, which include Andrew Marc, which did very well for both men's and women; as well as important brands including Cole Haan; Kenneth Cole; Guess?; Tommy Hilfiger; Levi's and Dockers are performing, excluding the storm impact, in line with our plan.
In general, we're positioned for slightly lower sales with conservative inventory commitment. This has driven, as intended, the improved profitability you see in the quarter. Our broader dress business, including Jessica Simpson, Eliza J, Guess?, Ellen Tracy, Kensie and Jessica Howard, as well as our own Andrew Marc and a number of other private label programs, were also in line.
We continue to lead the department and see growth from both well-established and newer brands. Across the dress business, we're booking well for spring and are excited about the continued potential.
Kensie contemporary sportswear, which we launched this year, is doing quite well, and we continue to expect solid growth. Door counts is now up to over 1,500 doors, up from 1,200 this past spring. We're very pleased with the leadership provided by Erik and Lani Karls. We expect several new exciting new initiatives within this business. Our plan is to grow this brand at a rapid pace.
Our Wilsons retail business is quite strong in the quarter. Comps were up 18% for the quarter, gross margins were up over 2 full points compared to last year and, while we will see some impact in the fourth quarter from the hurricane, we've seen a solid pickup in business over the last few weeks. We think the assortment is positioned extremely well for a strong finish this year. We're encouraged by this progress and looking forward for continued growth next year.
With respect to our specialty retail initiatives, I would note that we sold back our interest in the JV for Vince Camuto retail stores to the Camuto Group during the quarter. We think this business will be successful, and it shows significant promise, but collectively, we believe that this business will be better served by the brand owner.
Now before I turn the call over to Neal, very pleased to talk a little bit about our acquisition of Vilebrequin. For those of you who are not familiar with Vilebrequin, it is regarded as the best status men's and boy's swimwear brand in the world. This is a global business that is underpenetrated in many markets, especially in the United States. The price points and the margin the brand carries are extraordinary. There are 60 company-owned stores globally, which make up the bulk of the approximately $60 million in annual revenues, with another 20 franchise partners in international markets, each with multiple stores.
On top of this is a small wholesale business to luxury specialty retailers. Our growth strategy for the business will proceed along 2 paths. First, geographically, we are pushing for a significant expansion in the United States. We're now developing specific plans to grow the brand's wholesale distribution and to augment that within additional retail stores. We're also developing a stronger e-commerce presence. We believe that there is a great opportunity to grow the brand in the Pacific Rim, Europe and the United States.
In the U.S., we will be first working to increase the Vilebrequin's presence in the first-tier cities in the New York metropolitan area, Florida and California. Our second path to growth with Vilebrequin is through category expansion. We believe there is a great opportunity to develop men's resort wear. This will include the expansion of categories like knits, wovens, accessories, slippers, towels and other items. This brand is particularly known for its relationship between father and son. We'll strengthen this product line as well as its message.
In addition, women respond extremely well to this brand. We think there is an excellent opportunity for Vilebrequin to develop a multicategory women's business in the same core categories, especially swimwear.
While the brand is relatively small, it is an incredibly strong and attractive brand for the wide luxury market. We have an excellent management team in place to grow this business, and we are very excited about its future. Thank you, and now I'll turn the call over to Neal for a closer look at the numbers for the quarter.