Fran Horowitz-Bonadies
Analyst · the Telsey Advisory Group
Good morning. And thank you for joining us today to discuss our second quarter results. Before I get started, I would like to take a moment to thank our global teams for continuing to bring your best each and every day.
So it's been a couple of months since our Investor Day. And during that time, the retail landscape has continued to evolve rapidly. We're now in year 3 of 1 of the most dynamic environments that I have experienced in my 30-plus-year career in retail. The work we have done over the last several years to improve our enterprise-wide agility has enabled us to take decisive action to navigate near-term challenges while remaining focused on executing to our long-term goals.
At our June Investor Day, we provided our 2025 and long-term targets and introduced our Always Forward Plan, which is centered around the successful execution of 3 strategic principles: focused brand growth, an enterprise-wide digital revolution and operating with financial discipline. During the second quarter, despite well-documented consumer headwinds, we made progress against all 3.
Let's start with our first principle: focused brand growth. I'm excited about the global opportunity of our brands, and I'm confident in their positioning. However, we've recently experienced a significant divergence in sales and gross margin trends amongst our 2 largest brands, Abercrombie adults and Hollister.
When analyzing the Q2 spending behaviors, it has truly been a tale of 2 worlds. Challenges at Hollister, whose customer base tilts lower on the income scale compared to the Abercrombie adults brand, was the primary driver of our total company sales and operating margin miss relative to the outlook we provided on our Q1 call.
For the second quarter, total company sales declined 7% and were down 4% on a constant currency basis. Abercrombie brands, which includes kids, grew 5% or 7% on a constant currency basis, led by ongoing strength in our primary growth opportunity, Abercrombie adults.
As many of you have witnessed, Abercrombie adults has had an amazing turnaround over the last 3 years. We have successfully evolved the brand positioning, assortment and fits to cater to the lifestyle needs of our target young millennial customer, and we see additional runway ahead. During the second quarter, our Abercrombie adult customer was actively shopping for their weekend trips, weddings and going back to the office. Sales and conversion remained consistent month-to-month, and our promotions and markdowns were in line with plan, leading adults to achieve its best Q2 sales since 2015 at its highest Q2 AUR since 2005. Congratulations to the team.
Women's remained a standout, delivering its best Q2 sales in AUR since 2008 with dresses, jeans and knits continuing to outperform. Throughout this summer, our dresses were popping up everywhere, from viral TikToks to press headlines, all celebrating the fit, comfort and style of our assortments.
Men's results were also encouraging, delivering the highest Q2 AUR since 2013. We are seeing more green shoots as he rediscovers the brand and all the new product that caters to his lifestyle needs, such as the recent launch of our golf shop, which was very well received.
Last, certainly but not least, response to our newest sub-brand, YPB or Your Personal Best, remains strong across genders.
Abercrombie performance has been in sharp contrast to Hollister brands, which declined 15% or 12% on a constant currency basis in the second quarter. As a reminder, this includes Gilly Hicks and Social Tourist. As global inflationary pressures mounted, we experienced a shift in our teen shopping behavior, resulting in lower conversion and basket size.
While we track closely to apparel store traffic in the U.S., our customer was doing more browsing than buying and targeting special occasion items like women's dresses, where we registered our best ever Q2 sales, and men's woven shirts. Outside of these trending categories, our customers were searching for and responding to promotions.
As back-to-school has kicked off, our Hollister customer shopping behavior has continued to deviate from our expectations. Demand has moved out of bottoms, which has been a top-performing category over the last several years into tops and dresses. As we've seen selling trends develop, we've had a swift call to action.
We've adjusted our fall and holiday orders shifting into higher-trending categories and out of core. In addition, we are reimagining our store experience in assessing our go-to-market strategy, including the ideal balance between stores and digital as the world has reopened and our team has returned to in-person shopping. We're continuing to look for additional areas of opportunity, and I'm confident that these steps will help Hollister get back on track even if the macro environment remains challenging.
Rounding up the conversation on brands, similar to Hollister, abercrombie kids had a soft start to back-to-school season. At Gilly Hicks, active and lounge continued to outperform while at Social Tourist, we've been leaning into higher fashion assortments.
Inventory management is a key component of our strategic brand growth principle. We ended the quarter with roughly 92% of our inventory current, defined as back-to-school and early fall product, new goods that haven't been set or longer-life items. This is in line with historic levels, reflecting the recent sell-through of summer seasonal goods at Hollister as we took markdowns to clear through warmer weather product.
Total end of quarter inventories were up 70% to Q2 2021. And as a reminder, Q2 2021 inventory marked a decade plus low due to freight delays and our exposure to Vietnam production, which was our largest country of origin last year at roughly 40% and experienced significant COVID-related factory closures, which had an outsized impact on timing of receipts. Of the 70% increase, in-transit inventory was the largest driver, up $140 million or 130% to last year, contributing 34 points of the total increase as we lapped significant product delays.
Our in-transit inventory is late fall and holiday goods that we want here before the peak season, unlike last year, when we were still receiving product after Christmas. Units on hand contributed another 28 points in line with our plan coming into the quarter as we lapped our lowest Q2 on-hand inventory levels since the mid-2000s.
After not being able to keep up with sales demand in the back half of last year, in the spring, we decided to proactively pull forward deliveries to ensure in-stock positioning for this back-to-school and holiday season this year. And the final piece of the total increase is higher year-over-year product costs, which contributed 8 points.
We have taken action to ensure that our inventories move closer to our sales expectations in the back half. We expect year-over-year inventory growth to peak in Q2 and moderate significantly in Q3 and Q4 as we anniversary the unprecedented number of late receipts we experienced last year and realized the benefits of recent moves taken to improve inventory turns and reduce receipts.
We're keeping our eyes on Hollister inventory as it's slightly more elevated than we would like, reflecting the falloff we experienced in late June and the shift away from core categories. Assuming recent trends remain consistent, we expect to continue to leverage markdowns in Q3 to keep seasonal items turning.
We are rightsizing Hollister inventory levels for holiday and beyond through a series of actions that included reducing receipts, utilizing box-and-hold strategies on certain core items and recadencing the timing of inventory sets. Beyond inventory management, evolving our store experience and opening new stores is also critical to the successful execution of our strategic brand growth principle.
As a reminder, this year, we expect to open around 60 stores, heavily weighted to the third and fourth quarter. Our updated stores are an amazing representation of our brands today. New locations are smaller format in the mix of existing markets that we exited because we couldn't find the right deals as well as new markets that we have identified through data and analytics.
On an average store basis, we anticipate that the new Abercrombie adult and Hollister stores opening in fiscal 2022 will contribute at least 2x the annual sales volume of our planned 30-store closures. At Abercrombie, we recently introduced an updated store design, the getaway shop, which is meant to evoke the aesthetic of a chic hotel lobby.
For those of you who attended our Investor Day, the pop-up shop there had elements of this new design, which is roughly 4,500 square feet versus a chain average of 5,000 square feet. The first 2 locations just opened: 1 in Los Angeles and the other in Milan. And the remainder of new Abercrombie adult locations this year will be in the updated format.
These Abercrombie stores as well as others opening this year across brands stay true to our stringent real estate strategy: right size, right location, right economics. If we can't check the box in all 3, we will continue to walk away, and with just under 50% of our revenues derived digitally in fiscal 2021, we have the ability to do that.
Now turning to our second strategic principle: enterprise-wide digital revolution. In the second quarter, we continued to make progress towards the longer-term digital technology and data aspirations discussed at our Investor Day. As a reminder, we have a large sophisticated global digital operation, with our digital sales reaching roughly $1.7 billion in 2021.
Our goal is to deliver a best-in-class, seamless digital experience, and that is fueling our digital revolution across the company. In the customer experience space, we continue to listen to our customer, and through our new agile ways of working, we were able to deliver experience improvements across the omnichannel shopping journey.
At the same time, we accelerated the pace of key multiyear technology modernization efforts, including upgrading our retail merchandising system, moving to the cloud and evolving our core data architecture. These efforts have and will continue to enable more organizational agility and improve our ability to leverage our rich data to drive decision-making across the company.
And last, but certainly not least, our third strategic principle: operating with financial discipline. As the business became more challenging in the second quarter, we managed both customer and noncustomer-facing spend while prioritizing marketing and long-term strategic investments. Looking to the remainder of the year, we've made further adjustments, cutting approximately $35 million from the back half on top of volume-related expense decreases.
Quarter-to-date, sales are running consistent with Q2 levels although trends have improved sequentially each week. As we look to the back half, we expect inflationary pressures to continue and potentially heighten in EMEA. We have taken action across brands and at a corporate level, reflecting these assumptions.
While we are cautiously optimistic that inflation will moderate, we are not making improvement into our updated outlook. At Abercrombie, we've tweaked back half receipts to reflect the potential for that customer to become more impacted by inflationary pressures. If the trend accelerates, we will be able to fulfill demand through chase and prepositioned future set items.
At Hollister, we are assuming our customer will continue to be faced with tough decisions on where and how to spend their discretionary dollars. As mentioned, for the back half, we've chased into trending categories, reduced receipts, adjusted promotions and are employing box and hold where appropriate.
As we've consistently done over the last few years, we will continue to control what we can control, and we'll remain flexible to quickly respond to unknowns. We remain committed to executing to the 2025 and longer-term goals we provided at our Investor Day and are confident in our ability to achieve these goals, including sales of $4.1 billion to $4.3 billion and a sustainable operating margin rate at or above 8% by the end of fiscal 2025.
At the time we provided our targets, we assumed that Hollister customer would be more impacted by inflationary pressures in the near term and that annual growth would not be linear. That has not changed. And to be clear, we have multiple paths to achieve our goals.
This fall and holiday, as we respond to the dynamic environment, we have the balance sheet to protect investments in the key areas that support our Always Forward Plan, and they include judiciously investing in digital talent and tools to revolutionize how we approach the customer experience, modernizing our core platforms across merchandising and data and investing in marketing and store openings to drive brand awareness and enhance our ability to drive top line growth in the months and years to come.
I'm excited about our future. We've been faced with challenges in the past, and we've consistently overcome them from when I first arrived in late 2014, and we turned around Hollister to late [ '29 ] when the reinvention of Abercrombie adults first began to gain traction. From closing flagships and rightsizing our store footprint to our performance during the pandemic, we have proven time and again our ability to evolve with our customer.
And with that, I'm going to turn it over to Scott to provide more detail on the quarter and our Q3 and updated full year outlook.